Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Wendell Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 
Beak, The S 
Black Streak, The S 
Bob's Nob S 
Castlewood Capers S 
Cheesedick Soiree S 
Cobble Wobble S 
Horizontal Bop S 
Icerigger S 
Nob Job S 
Noodlers' Nightmare S 
Nose Job S 
Phalloid Void S 
Pit Viper S 
Pocket, The S 
Prarie Dog S 
Ruse, The S 
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 
Sidewinder S 
Slot, The S 
Song of the Wood S 
Sub, The S 
Sun Cave Direct S 
Sun Cave Right S 
Svengali S 
Textured Landscape S 
Triskaidekaphobia S 
Unsorted Routes:

Bag of Tricks aka Flake 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: R. M. Wright, 1995
Page Views: 1,538
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ready for a beta test.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Follow the West-facing corner system of the third buttress left of Wendell Spire. The crux is getting established in the corner system at 15 feet. It has very hard for 5.9.

Protection 

Draws and a rope.


Photos of Bag of Tricks aka Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Koko on the start.
Koko on the start.
sending the crux
sending the crux
Koko setting up the sandbag hand-jam.
Koko setting up the sandbag hand-jam.
in hiking boots
in hiking boots
Ken leading on Bag of Tricks.
Ken leading on Bag of Tricks.
Marc's first time up a difficult 9.  Can't wait to get him to Licorice Stick when it gets warmer this Spring.
Marc's first time up a difficult 9. Can't wait to...

Comments on Bag of Tricks aka Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 10, 2013
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Nov 18, 2001
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The move to get into the corner seems 10a to me--quite powerful compared to other 9s I've climbed.
By Sean O'Dell
Apr 29, 2002

I second that. The crux move at the overhang is an awkard, powerful, off-balance layback on a handjam. My vote's on that move being in the 10a range, but maybe that's just because it kicked my ass.
By Darin Lang
May 28, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I third that. 10a if you do it just right, harder if you do it wrong (aka My Way).
By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Feb 19, 2003

Fun route with tricky crux. Just figuring out what to do is the toughest part. Once you got it dialed it goes with no problem.
By Ken McVicker
Mar 15, 2003

I agree the crux is harder. 5.10a is more correct. I spent 4-5 minutes trying different sequences before I convinced myself to commit. It was real sketchy while on lead ove the crux. The good thing is that you have a bolt you can clip above you before heading over the crux. Once past the crux it's an easy stem to the top.
By Darrin Stein
From: Laurens, SC
May 18, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There are two routes that are within all the pictures seen here. I believe the one listed is straight up where the rope line is (see pic #1). I could be wrong, but it seems the comments are for the route to the right, which I believe is Prarie Dog.
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
May 19, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Darrin--my comments were for Bag of Tricks. I think it's hard to confuse the routes since Prairie Dog does not involve the corner or crack at all.
By BRYCE LARSEN
May 17, 2009

I DON'T KNOW WHAT MY PROBLEM IS I HAVE CLIMBED OTHER ROUTES OF 5.10 ON UP TO 5.11A. I KNOW I AM NOT THE GREATEST CLIMBER BUT THINK I WOULD BE GOOD ENOUGH TO HANDLE THIS ONE. I AM HAVING THE HARDEST TIME GETTING ESTABLISHED IN THE CORNER. ANYONE WHO'S DONE IT THAT HAS ANY TIPS?
By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
May 17, 2009

Bryce, first of all all caps equals shouting.
Anyway, the key beta here is that you backstep with the left foot and thrust your left buttcheek onto the angled ramp thingy. Once you've weighted the buttcheek, you can reposition hands and feet and move on.
By BRYCE LARSEN
May 24, 2009

Mike, thanks very much for the advice. It worked just like you said.
By crisgaret
From: Castle Rock, CO
Sep 26, 2009

This climb kicked my butt today. I should have read this info before we went out. The weighted butt-cheek would have probably helped a lot. I also agree with the 5.10a.

We will be back....
By TheSykle
Sep 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Hit this for the first time today.... Couldn't quite make the crux. Friends and several sacrifices of flesh to the Rock Gods lead us to rename it "5.9 my butt". Bottom line, concur with a 10a/b. Will try it with the butt trick discussed.
By Jessica Pemble
From: Yosemite, CA
Jan 8, 2012

What an AMAZING route!!! Thanks!
By teece303
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
May 10, 2013

Sandbagging is more or less the name of the game in Castlewood. With a couple of exceptions, every climb I've done here is sandbagged -- especially so on the bolted climbs, and a lot of the top ropes.