Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Boneyard
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad To The Bone S 
Bone Ami T 
Bone Spur S 
Buried Alive S 
Chilled to the Bone S 
Grave New World S 
Grave Robber S 
It's A Wanderful Life S 
Layed to Rest S 
Little Trundle Of Joy S 
Master Blaster S 
Modern Relic T,S 
Nail in My Coffin S 
No Brainer S 
Prince Brushing S 
Six Feet Under S 
Skeleton Key S 
Sweeping Beauty S 
Throw Me a Bone S 
Tibial Pursuit S 
Tombstone Tourist S 
Unearth Thee Delights S 
When The Whip Comes Down S 

Bad To The Bone 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Joe Shiefman, Tony Lusk, & Steve Johnson (1994)
Season: Shade After 12 Noon
Page Views: 797
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Sep 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Base beta photo.

Description 

While this route looks like a pile, it provides a great training ground for technicians looking to hone their craft. Comprised of a series of complex, delicate sequences this route stays on you, climaxing just prior to the anchors. The rock is surprisingly solid for the Boneyard.

Bad To The Bone can be located by dropping down and around a multi-colored corner with a notable lip sixty feet up. This is When The Whip Comes Down. Fifteen feet to the left is Bad to the Bone. The welded shut anchor is visible from the ground. There is a pronounced undercling between the first and second bolt.

Protection 

7 bolts to a welded shut anchor.


Comments on Bad To The Bone Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 1, 2014

Got on this climb yesterday. Wow. This was way better than I had been told it was. John's description is right on. This thing stays on you. It felt pretty bouldery to me and as hard as any twelve I have been on this year. I might have been having a high gravity day or perhaps it is a bit reachy as this felt nothing like 5.11 as others have suggested. Either way it was fun and I look forward to getting back on it.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 8, 2014

Went back today to redpoint this and replaced the old Hardware with ASCA Gear. This is a climb that keeps you focused but allows you to recover after the hard moves. Ryan and Duderina must have been breathing helium the day they got on it, or they might have gotten on another route, as 11c seems like such a bag to the four folks I know that have been on it lately. Or, as well as they are climbing it may have felt like 11c as climbs sometimes do.
By K-Tanz
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

EFR speaks the truth! .11c is a hellacious sand-bag. To me this felt at least .12a Good rock quality on small holds with very delicate movement. Good route that I would go back for!