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Bad Moki Roof 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 8,148
Submitted By: Jared Brown on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (151)
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Intense beauty on a rare downpour day. Bad Moki R...

Description 

This route is two routes right of Flakes of Wrath. It goes up the thin, slabby right facing corner, out the roof, and up a sandy slab/crack. It felt harder than 5.9, since I got really pumped placing gear in the roof, but none of the moves are that hard, it's just sustained. Don't lower and try not to toprope since there are really deep rope grooves in the roof. One groove just above the lip is deep enough to place pro in.

Protection 

Small cams and maybe a few stoppers for beginning and end, #.75 to #2 camalots for roof section, fixed anchor at top.


Photos of Bad Moki Roof Slideshow Add Photo
pulling on this great but sandy roof
pulling on this great but sandy roof
Ben setting up for the roof.
Ben setting up for the roof.
Setting up for the roof.
Setting up for the roof.
Done with the Bad Moki!
Done with the Bad Moki!
Ben takes a fall at the roof (pussy) but it's a cool mid-fall photo.
Ben takes a fall at the roof (pussy) but it's a co...
Dashiel Kulander climbing towards crux. Photo taken by Charlie Kulander.
Dashiel Kulander climbing towards crux. Photo take...
Bad Moki Roof with Flakes of Wrath to the left
BETA PHOTO: Bad Moki Roof with Flakes of Wrath to the left
Shane gettin down with his bad self!
Shane gettin down with his bad self!
Dan Russell on the roof
Dan Russell on the roof
Ryan Sayers on the initial slab
Ryan Sayers on the initial slab
I found that jammin my right foot in the roof and hands deep in above made the move stable.
I found that jammin my right foot in the roof and ...
Ryan Sayers on the roof
Ryan Sayers on the roof
just starting in to the roof section
just starting in to the roof section
Ryan Sayers at the lip <br />
Ryan Sayers at the lip
Prepping for the roof move.
Prepping for the roof move.
Dan Russell starting the roof
Dan Russell starting the roof
B Moki
B Moki

Comments on Bad Moki Roof Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 2, 2013
By Charles Dalgleish
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 27, 2002
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Love the climb. Makes for an interesting show for the road crowd while you go inverted, or worm your way through the lip of the roof.

Great climb that leaves you crying for more. Gets the blood flowing nicely for flakes of wrath next to it.

The route ain't harder than an eight. Unless you're a gym climber. It's easier than owl rock and sybernetics, both solid eights. Just remember, this is the dessert. The route has also changed a bit in the past 12 years too, since about 6 years ago someone pulled the flake on the left of the roof (where you could rest)but there's still a huge jug at the crux move, bring you're feet up right.

Please don't lower, the rock already has taken serious punishment. Save your rope and the rock and rappel.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 27, 2002

I also agree with the lowering comment. It is easiest to keep your belayer at the anchors for a party of two.
By KPRTX
Dec 11, 2002

Great route! Good place to start getting the arms workin'. You don't even have to lead it! DO belay from the top to respect the rock. Very nice short 5.9 section.

Dont let your rope suck up in the crack or rub excessively in the groves over the roof, be nice and rap the route.
By Dynomight510
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The first few placements are adequate and the quality of gear placements increases leading up to the roof. This is quite the desert sandbag and woudl rate it 5.9 dues to it's sustained nature. Rap the route and I don't reccomend top roping due to the rock wear from the rope.

Fun and wild

Sandbag at 5.8
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Feb 11, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Burly, very burly. Solid 5.9
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 12, 2004

Hard and weird 5.9.
By utfreeclimber
From: Sandy, UT
Mar 21, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I don't know about this one. It's definitely 5.9, maybe 5.8+, once you find the jugs to yard on but even after you pull the roof it's still kinda squirmy and slopey to the finish. One piece of advice... don't try climbing this thing using fist jams and offwidth technique or else this stupid little roof'll feel like a hard 5.11 crack, look for the jugs.
By mark chytka
From: laramie wy
Apr 20, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this route is awesome and if you climb it right it will feel like a solid 5.8 this climb has some awesome hidden features that make pulling the lip easy and fun. the lip is a little sandy and to the anchors is very sandy as well.
Please don't toprope this route it tears up the rock. the grooves in the roof are horrific.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Sep 28, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Crux is short but stout, in my opinion. Don't know about any secret holds that make this 5.8?? Fun climb, with a touch of sandy groveling to spice it up.
By Greg D
From: Here
Apr 15, 2007

Tony, I appreciate your effort replacing the anchor, but I'm confused at your choice of location. Your new bolt does not equalize with any of the other anchors when rapping. Please explain.

Edit: does not apply anymore with the new anchors.
By Dane Casterson
From: Boulder
Apr 16, 2007

Tough at 5.9 but i dont have much experience in the desert. Found one jug under the lip of the roof but it got a little desperate for me after that. Am i missing something or is this route a good representation of what desert 5.9 crack moves feel like?
By Jonathan Schumacher
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 20, 2007

Enjoyable climb. Made the mistake of lowering (belayer wasn't up for the climb).... Nightmare...
By T-Bob
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This and Flakes of Wrath are by and far the best routes I've found on Potash. Talk about a blast of a route with great gear. It's not often a slug like myself get's to pull 6ft. roofs on trad gear(or any kind of gear for that matter!). I found a wicked solid kneebar just under the roof which conveniently blocked me from getting any good jams in the roof section. Had to hang on piece and reset. It went right away after I discombobulated myself.
Tony
By Monkey Den Climber
From: moab, utah
Oct 25, 2009

saw new anchors today..... yay, no more having 2 rap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! they r right above the roof now
By grk10vq
Administrator
Oct 26, 2009

smart!

it would be great if it were possible to re-position the anchors for Flakes on Wrath as well so the roof doesn't eventually get sawed in half.
By kimi hashimoto
Mar 30, 2010

Is this route really 5.9? I tried 3times.It has nice but bad roof, I felt so fun.My hands are relatively small,but the crack is thin-hand(#1.5friend) for me.
the protection are orange and red TCUs,#2friend,#1.5friend,#3friend.Nuts(wired) are no necessary.
By Daniel Hansen
May 27, 2011

Does anyone know what the route that shoots off to the right of the roof is? Its new this year so I don't think its in any of the guides
By Luke Malatesta
From: Moab Utah
May 28, 2011

The route would be "Horizontal Mambo" . It goes @ .12d
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Mar 28, 2012

Anyone who thinks this is easier than Owl must be smoking crack. I didn't even think of using a rope on Owl, but Moki was no gimme. I did it twice and didn't find any jugs. Worth doing for sure.
By Skylar Smith
May 20, 2012

This route is definently not 5.9. This is a solid 5.10. Nice finger crack in the beginning, but the rough was gnarly for me. For me it was cupped hands most of the way. I'd say this is harder than the Incredible Hand Crack.
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Oct 23, 2012

I fist jammed and foot jammed the overhang part. Very fun this way and extremely burly. After I climbed though, a friend climbed and had found a secret jug. Looked like it made the climb significantly easier!
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Oct 2, 2013

Can you say perfect hand crack roof? A must do! Definitely solid 5.9 after the slab. Lowering kinda sucks but eh, still a rad line. Bring finger sizes for the start and thin hands (.75 and 1s) for the roof. Maybe a 2 if I remember right. Rock on!