Intense beauty on a rare downpour day. Bad Moki R...
This route is two routes right of Flakes of Wrath. It goes up the thin, slabby right facing corner, out the roof, and up a sandy slab/crack. It felt harder than 5.9, since I got really pumped placing gear in the roof, but none of the moves are that hard, it's just sustained. Don't lower and try not to toprope since there are really deep rope grooves in the roof. One groove just above the lip is deep enough to place pro in.
Small cams and maybe a few stoppers for beginning and end, #.75 to #2 camalots for roof section, fixed anchor at top.
By Charles Dalgleish From: Salt Lake City, Utah Oct 27, 2002 rating: 5.8-5b16VI-14VS 4c
Love the climb. Makes for an interesting show for the road crowd while you go inverted, or worm your way through the lip of the roof.
Great climb that leaves you crying for more. Gets the blood flowing nicely for flakes of wrath next to it.
The route ain't harder than an eight. Unless you're a gym climber. It's easier than owl rock and sybernetics, both solid eights. Just remember, this is the dessert. The route has also changed a bit in the past 12 years too, since about 6 years ago someone pulled the flake on the left of the roof (where you could rest)but there's still a huge jug at the crux move, bring you're feet up right.
Please don't lower, the rock already has taken serious punishment. Save your rope and the rock and rappel.
The first few placements are adequate and the quality of gear placements increases leading up to the roof. This is quite the desert sandbag and woudl rate it 5.9 dues to it's sustained nature. Rap the route and I don't reccomend top roping due to the rock wear from the rope.
Fun and wild
Sandbag at 5.8
By Shane Zentner From: Colorado Feb 11, 2004 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
By utfreeclimber From: Sandy, UT Mar 21, 2006 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a PG13
I don't know about this one. It's definitely 5.9, maybe 5.8+, once you find the jugs to yard on but even after you pull the roof it's still kinda squirmy and slopey to the finish. One piece of advice... don't try climbing this thing using fist jams and offwidth technique or else this stupid little roof'll feel like a hard 5.11 crack, look for the jugs.
By mark chytka From: laramie wy Apr 20, 2006 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
this route is awesome and if you climb it right it will feel like a solid 5.8 this climb has some awesome hidden features that make pulling the lip easy and fun. the lip is a little sandy and to the anchors is very sandy as well. Please don't toprope this route it tears up the rock. the grooves in the roof are horrific.
By Mark Michaels From: Draper, UT Sep 28, 2006 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Crux is short but stout, in my opinion. Don't know about any secret holds that make this 5.8?? Fun climb, with a touch of sandy groveling to spice it up.
Tough at 5.9 but i dont have much experience in the desert. Found one jug under the lip of the roof but it got a little desperate for me after that. Am i missing something or is this route a good representation of what desert 5.9 crack moves feel like?
This and Flakes of Wrath are by and far the best routes I've found on Potash. Talk about a blast of a route with great gear. It's not often a slug like myself get's to pull 6ft. roofs on trad gear(or any kind of gear for that matter!). I found a wicked solid kneebar just under the roof which conveniently blocked me from getting any good jams in the roof section. Had to hang on piece and reset. It went right away after I discombobulated myself. Tony
Is this route really 5.9? I tried 3times.It has nice but bad roof, I felt so fun.My hands are relatively small,but the crack is thin-hand(#1.5friend) for me. the protection are orange and red TCUs,#2friend,#1.5friend,#3friend.Nuts(wired) are no necessary.
This route is definently not 5.9. This is a solid 5.10. Nice finger crack in the beginning, but the rough was gnarly for me. For me it was cupped hands most of the way. I'd say this is harder than the Incredible Hand Crack.
I fist jammed and foot jammed the overhang part. Very fun this way and extremely burly. After I climbed though, a friend climbed and had found a secret jug. Looked like it made the climb significantly easier!
By Jordan Hirro From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri Oct 2, 2013
Can you say perfect hand crack roof? A must do! Definitely solid 5.9 after the slab. Lowering kinda sucks but eh, still a rad line. Bring finger sizes for the start and thin hands (.75 and 1s) for the roof. Maybe a 2 if I remember right. Rock on!