Bad Man with a Devil's Hand  5.10b

1,017 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet FA:  Griffith, Wolf New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Wade Griffith on May 5, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Reynold's.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Fun route up previously unexplored section of the wall. Goes up through the "Elephant's Foot" to the right of Ain't Crack. First pitch follows rotten flared crack up to the Elephant's Foot roof and passes it on right to follow 5.8 offwidth, natural belay with gear from 3 to 4 inches at the water groove(long slings good to reduce rope drag at the roof). Next pitch angles up and left on the slab to a steep arete(cool exposure) following a line of bolts, 10b- take natural gear for the belay, #3 Camalot size. Last pitch is the crux on steep crystals to the right of Aint Crack Headwall to a bolt belay. May be a more direct route possible straight up to the arete left of the offwidth for a variation on first pitch, but would need to be equipped with bolts maybe.

Protection 

Take gear up to #4 Camalot and 8 draws. Long slings to reduce rope drag on first and second pitches.

Photos of Bad Man with a Devil's Hand Slideshow

Add Photo

BETA PHOTO: The line.