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Bad Girls Get Spanked 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan Hare, November 1998
Page Views: 4,186
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Description 

This is as great route. Belay from under the obvious tree. Scramble up the class 4 to the base of the left face. Follow the crack up and right. Cool move onto the ledge about 15 feet off the ground. Stand on the ledge and follow the vertical crack up to the horizontal slash (crux) then up and right to the undercling. Another badass move on this route is the static move to the undercling. (Note: A big hold below the undercling is off limits. See red dot.) Layback to the ledge, then climb the left of two cracks up to the bolts.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. The bolts are about 10 feet below the summit. You can rappel down, or throw some shorter slings around the pinnacle and belay from there. Note: a 60m rope is recommended for this route. It's possible with a 50m, but it is not as comfortable.

Warning 

The big flake moves. Don't yard on it!


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 15, 2013
By Scott Hudson
Jun 5, 2001

A very sustained route with a lot of 5.11 moves. Some of the clips are difficult, but overall it is well protected. Be solid on 5.11 before leading this one.
By Quinn Stevens
From: Denver, CO
Jul 9, 2001

I don't think one could argue that traversing right to the crack undercling and sidepull is off. However, it's pretty fun and interesting to climb the majority of this route just left of the crack system.
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Oct 1, 2001

Myke, et al., about the 5.11 rating you give this climb: I don't agree with it at all. There is very little chance someone not strong on 11s would get this route on the onsight, which I assume is NOT what you grade routes at. Once you have done the route 30 times, surely it gets easier, but by no means is this 11, a solid 11b, with several 5.11 moves in the mix. As for traversing to the underclings, it surely does ease the climbing, but overal maybe by a letter or 2 at most.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 13, 2001

This felt much easier than 5.11c, 11a sounds closer. If you avoid the obvious undercling then the line might go at 5.11c. But this appears to be seldom done with the flake and undercling at hand's reach.
By TBD
May 14, 2002

Good route. There is another 11 to the left of this route that is a little easier but even more fun, IMO.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I got on this last night (6/6/02) and it was seeping water from the seams. And that was running down onto the footholds....

So yeah- it felt darn hard.

I'm surprised this gets 2-stars, but maybe if it dries out, I'd see it in a better light and like it.
By Chad Stebbins II
Sep 25, 2003

Wow man.... sick route if yall havent been herre try it out it is an amazing climb and view. keep climbing those boulders.
By Lon Black
Sep 27, 2004

One of the clips up high (2nd to last I believe) is a tough clip. I downclimbed to a decent stance and looked at the body position again before doing it. Nice route Dan.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Mar 9, 2009

This is a fun route, it's probably easier for people with small fingers. It's a bit scary when using the undercling flake, since it moves as you pull on it. And clipping the bolt higher up on this flake you can hear a hollow sound....
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 30, 2009

This was a really fun route with cool movement. Moving past the undercling will allow you to feel the pump! I sat on the ledge about 15 feet above the undercling to shake it out for a few minutes. I onsighted it, and have not done very many 11s, so I would guess low 11. Maybe after I've done a few more I will rate the grade. If you're in the area do it!
By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 6, 2012

Did this last night and thought that the route is pretty solid 11 a/b. The pic shows a zag to the right below the undercling, I went straight up the seam then stepped over to the undercling. Pretty thin climbing here, could warrant the 11c that it is rated in the guidebook for a short person.
By Moritz B.
Aug 15, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I didnīt know about the moving flake when I climbed this today for the first time. When I fully grabbed the flake and felt how it was moving, I got a little sketched out.
The flake will go eventually. Donīt yank (outwards) on it. Fun route!