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The Charlatan
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Fortune T 
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) T 
Fancy Free T 
Gemstone T 
Northwest Route T 
Spooky T 
Superstition T 
Valley Guy, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bad Fortune 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Greg Vernon and Jason Lodas, August 1990
Page Views: 635
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Feb 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Climb through some funkiness to a good crack. Where the crack peters out, thin face climbing is protected by three bolts. Finish the first pitch by climbing a good right facing corner to a two bolt anchor. For the second pitch, climb up the corner and then traverse left at a ledge. Continue up another crack until you come to a two bolt anchor that meets up with Fancy Free. Continue up Fancy Free to the top.


Location 

Located just left of Fancy Free.


Protection 

Standard rack, with some thin stuff and a double set of cams.



Comments on Bad Fortune Add Comment
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By ChugachMan
Sep 8, 2009

The 11c crux on the first pitch is probably more 11a for those blessed with gangly arms and height.

By Murf
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I was glad I'm 6' tall, but I didn't think it brought the rating down to .11a. Overall an excellent pitch and well worth doing.

All three bolts and anchor are shiny ASCA hardware. A 70m allows for plenty of rope to rap/TR. A 60m would likely work but might require belaying or starting somewhat high.

The upper pitch(es) looks dirty, anyone have any beta?