Climb through some funkiness to a good crack. Where the crack peters out, thin face climbing is protected by three bolts. Finish the first pitch by climbing a good right facing corner to a two bolt anchor. For the second pitch, climb up the corner and then traverse left at a ledge. Continue up another crack until you come to a two bolt anchor that meets up with Fancy Free. Continue up Fancy Free to the top.
Located just left of Fancy Free.
Standard rack, with some thin stuff and a double set of cams.
Sep 8, 2009
The 11c crux on the first pitch is probably more 11a for those blessed with gangly arms and height.
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I was glad I'm 6' tall, but I didn't think it brought the rating down to .11a. Overall an excellent pitch and well worth doing.
All three bolts and anchor are shiny ASCA hardware. A 70m allows for plenty of rope to rap/TR. A 60m would likely work but might require belaying or starting somewhat high.
The upper pitch(es) looks dirty, anyone have any beta?