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Bad Bolts in Las Vegas
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By LV Climbers Liaison Council
Feb 20, 2014

This thread serves as a clearinghouse for fixed hardware that is known to be in need of replacement in the Las Vegas area - including Red Rocks and the various local limestone areas. It's primary purpose is to steer local rebolting efforts to where they're most needed.

If you come across a suspicious bolt, please post to this thread the following information:

1) The route name and area.
2) The location of the bolt (include as much information as possible).
3) A description of the problem (the type or appearance of the bolt and what the problem is).

Please keep in mind that the information you provide will be consolidated into this post and your individual post will be removed. If you would like to discuss bolts or bolting in general, we encourage you to post in the community forum.

Thanks for your help in maintaining the awesome climbing we all enjoy here in Vegas!

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  • Under the Boardwalk (The Pier): Both anchor bolts are loose. Reported by Tony Grieb.
  • Paralyzed (The Alternative Crag): Loose anchor bolts. Reported by Tony Grieb.
  • Solar Slab Gully (Oak Creek Canyon): Upper two anchors need replacing. Possibly move upper anchor to left side of gully. Reported by John Wilder.
  • Johnny Vegas (Oak Creek Canyon): Righthand anchor bolt on third pitch anchor is loose. Lower anchors are outdated hardware (shuts). Reported by John Wilder.
  • Idiot Parade (Black Corridor): First bolt is a spinner. Reported by Dan White.
  • Levitation 29 (Oak Creek Canyon): One of the anchor bolts on pitch 1 pulled out. Probably 3/8" 5 piece. Reported by AMT.
  • Hooligans (Sonic Youth Wall): Bolts and anchors (old homemade hangers). Reported by Josh Janes.
  • Jubilant Song (Windy Peak): The lone pro bolt is an old 1/4 incher. Reported by Josh Janes.
  • Excellent Adventure (Pine Creek Canyon): P3 has homemade hangers (5x bolts). Reported by Josh Janes.
  • The Deluxe (Stratocaster): Missing an anchor bolt. Reported by John Wilder.
  • Viagra Falls (Panty Wall): May be missing the final bolt. Reported by John Wilder.
  • Y2K (Pine Creek): Older bolts with washers and chain links. Reported by Matt Carpenter.
  • Jupiter 2 (Pine Creek): Old stud protecting the third pitch needs to be chopped/patched. Reported by Josh Janes.
  • Solar Slab Gully (Oak Creek): Last time I descended it I noticed the lone thread anchor (which is required to facilitate rappelling the gully with a single rope) had been removed. Reported by Josh Janes.
  • Return to Forever (Black Velvet): has two old 1/4 inch bolts for the anchor (top of pitch 2). Reported by Matt Kuehl
  • Mercedes (Icebox): has homemade hangers and thin chain for anchor. Reported by Matt Kuehl.
  • Birdland (Pine Creek): pull/patch old bolt atop P1. Reported by Keithb00ne.
  • Just Shut Up and Climb (Wake Up Wall): the last bolt is loose and wiggles. Reported by Adam Floyd.
  • Children of the Sun (Black Velvet): Top of the second pitch and fourth pitch - both bolts on both pitches should be replaced. Reported by Andrew Yasso.
  • Silver Surfer (Iron Man wall): has a loose bolt, 3rd or 4th from the bottom. Hanger is loose and the bolt shaft wiggles up and down in the hole. I believe it was the bolt right before the last steep section. Reported by nmiller.
  • Undiscovered Country (The Hamlet): Anchor bolts are loose. Reported by Jacob Koffler.
  • Unimpeachable Groping (Juniper Canyon): Anchor bolt on ledge is missing. Reported by John Wilder.
  • The Runaway (The Gallery): Left anchor bolt is loose. Reported by JuanCarlos.
  • Slot Machine (Pine Creek Canyon): The anchor has old Leeper hangers but decent 3/8" studs. Reported by Josh Janes.
  • Cloud Tower (Juniper Canyon): Anchor bolts atop the final handcrack pitch are a mess. Should be replaced with glue-ins due to soft rock. Also, pro bolts on the crux pitch should be pulled/patched. Reported by earl mcalister and Josh Janes.
  • Chocolate Flakes (Pine Creek Canyon): Anchors need updating (the anchor atop P2 should be fully updated, the anchor atop P1 needs one bolt replaced). Reported by Josh Janes.
  • Five and Dime (Pine Creek): Six pro bolts need replacement. Most should be moved slightly closer to the arete (left). Reported by Josh Janes.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Replacement Log (once issues listed above have been addressed, they'll be moved here):

  • Parental Guidance (Pine Creek Canyon): All pro bolts have been replaced with 1/2" stainless steel as of March, 2014.
  • Yellow Rose of Texas (Black Velvet Canyon): Three of the four pro bolts low on the route were replaced and one of the anchors was augmented with 1/2" stainless steel as of April, 2014.
  • Chocolate Flakes (Pine Creek Canyon): Anchors have been replaced with 1/2" stainless steel as of April, 2014.


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By BackAtItAgain
Mar 13, 2014

Shady Ladies / Magellinic Cloud in Icebox Canyon / Sunnyside Crag has a half ass anchor - 1 good bolt - then webbing around a somewhat suspect column, it would be nice to see a second bolt.


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By Josh Janes
Mar 23, 2014

BackAtItAgain: Although this is a situation where an in situ rap anchor might be improved (reduced visual impact, increased trustworthiness) by the addition of a bolt, technically it would be a retro since it is not really necessary. At this time we want to focus on one-for-one replacement but we can definitely revisit this topic in the future. Thanks for you input!


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By Josh Janes
Mar 23, 2014

Please use this format if possible:

Climb (Area): Description of the issue. Reported by (your username).

Thanks!


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
May 5, 2014
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

Overhanging Hangover (Black Velvet Canyon): One anchor bolt on the first pitch is a spinner. Both bolts on the second pitch are spinners - and have someone's rusty jingus hardware store quicklink cloggin' up one of the bolts too. Reported by Weston L


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By Gregger Man
May 11, 2014
gg

Levitation 29/Eagle Wall/ belay at the top of P4 - new 5-piece bolt is loose enough to turn with fingers. Take a torque wrench.
Reported by Greg German


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