An exhilarating Rock Canyon classic up the most striking buttress at the mouth of the canyon. The climbing is exciting, the rock is sometimes suspect, and the exposure is intimidating. Historical relics abound (pins and bolts) making for a fun ride through the wayback machine.
P1 (50 feet, 5.11d, or 5.8 C0) An overhanging start on thought-provoking rock (but good holds), to an interesting clipping position for the third bolt. The business starts after clipping the third with smaller, less positive holds, and disappearing feet.
Once the fifth bolt is passed the terrain becomes much less steep and is significantly easier (5.easy) to the chains (which is good, because it's a long way to the chains).
P2 (100 feet, 5.5 PG13) With the bolts from two new bolted lines that cross this pitch, itís not as frightening or as committing as it once was, but this pitch still gets your attention.
Traverse right about 25 feet from the P1 chains to an old, 1/4" bolt with a Dave Houser aluminum hanger. The bolt is not exactly confidence-inspiring, but there is a fair #2 C3 placement next to it. Continue right and up a bit, passing a newer bolt until you can see another old 1/4" bolt with a Leeper hanger (there is a newer bolt just a bit below it). Head up and left to the chains located at the left corner of the enormous roof (youíll pass another set of chains from one of the newer routesódonít stop there).
P3 (90 feet, 5.10a) The opening moves of this, the best pitch, are very committing and quite rewarding: Climb up a bit from the belay, clip the bolt over the roof, and make an airy, very exciting step-across. Continue up in the corner above, on positive holds with the occasional hand jam. Pass through a couple of steep sections, eventually traversing away from the corner a bit left and up to a bolted chain belay.
P4 (130 feet, 5.7) Traverse left from the belay, crossing over a bolted line and then head up a few feet left of the bolted line in a weakness. Climb upward on good rock just to the right of a dirty, broken crack, passing a double-ring anchor on your left. Head up the dirty chimney, carefully avoiding the many loose blocks. The crux is avoiding touching the large section of guano near the start of the chimney portion. The simplest solution for a belay at the top is to use the bolted belay for Brain Full of Spiders.
Starts up the last bolted line to the left of the Bad Bananas "cave", but before those bolted lines which are found up the ramp to the left.
A single rack with microcams and cams to 3 inches, nuts, and plenty of slings.
P1 5 bolts to chain anchors.
P2 1 ancient bolt (with a fair #2 BD C3 placement next to it), four modern bolts from other lines that this pitch crosses, chain anchors.
P3 1 bolt (that youíd want to clip), two or three old pitons, good-but-occasionally tricky gear, chain anchors.
P4 Good gear for the first two-thirds (and bolts within reach from another line if you so choose), mostly lousy gear for the last third of the pitch. Bolted anchors.
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
Sep 5, 2009
This isn't a four star route because of the rock or because of the climbing (although some of the movement is quite a bit of fun). It's a classic route because of history, intimidation factor, and exposure; completing it is a worthy accomplishment for Rock Canyon aficionados.
The Ruckman guide's description casts a foreboding pall:
"[T]he rock is rotten, the gear dubious, and the lines are hard to discern. Climbers should only attempt a route on this wall if it is well within their ability, and if they have considerable experience with loose, rotten rock".
This line is a serious undertaking, but is a very rewarding route.
From: Austin, TX
Feb 7, 2012
This bad boy sure was an adventure.
I loved everything about the climb except the last pitch. The chimney is still full of massive loose blocks, so take care there.
For what it's worth, I thought the second pitch was the most fun I could have imagined having on a 5.5. Rounding the corner through the traverse was a memory. The moves that start of the third pitch are also some of the boldest i've ever had to do. The view is spectacular the whole way up, and all of the relics are really cool. The Ruckman's guide is right though. The last two pitches don't protect very easily and the rock is terrible in places, so take care if you haven't done a lot of climbing on this side of the canyon.
I'd highly recommend the route and wonder why it isn't done more often.