20 kN wrote:
A bit OT, but there is something worth noting about bad anchors. While I dont have a serious issue with R/X routes and bad anchors on unpopular routes in major climbing areas, I do have somewhat of an issue with them at smaller crags. The problem is that when someone is killed, for whatever reason, and the landowner does not have any form of legal protection, he/she/it may be well inclined to ban climbing. One person gets killed from a crappy 1/4" bolt and everyone looses their right to climb at the crag. When that happens it is a complete utter bitch to reopen the area. It takes years, sometimes over five years, to get things worked out. In some cases, the area is never reopened. Additionally, it takes thousands of hours of hard "95% of the work is done by 5% of the people"-type work to get the area reopened. All because of one injury or death. Thus, in areas where closures are a concern, I think the community as a whole has a duty to eliminate dangerous routes and bad hardware. Access is more important than bolting ethics or ego.