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Apr 4, 2014
Bomber anchor in Huasteca, NL Mexico. Hardware store cord around a dead nub
hardware store cord around a dead bush nub
hardware store cord around a dead bush nub
Mark Grundon
Joined Feb 18, 2011
968 points
Apr 6, 2014
20 kN wrote:
A bit OT, but there is something worth noting about bad anchors. While I dont have a serious issue with R/X routes and bad anchors on unpopular routes in major climbing areas, I do have somewhat of an issue with them at smaller crags. The problem is that when someone is killed, for whatever reason, and the landowner does not have any form of legal protection, he/she/it may be well inclined to ban climbing. One person gets killed from a crappy 1/4" bolt and everyone looses their right to climb at the crag. When that happens it is a complete utter bitch to reopen the area. It takes years, sometimes over five years, to get things worked out. In some cases, the area is never reopened. Additionally, it takes thousands of hours of hard "95% of the work is done by 5% of the people"-type work to get the area reopened. All because of one injury or death. Thus, in areas where closures are a concern, I think the community as a whole has a duty to eliminate dangerous routes and bad hardware. Access is more important than bolting ethics or ego.



+1
J Meagher
Joined Oct 21, 2012
314 points
Apr 6, 2014
Start of Pitch 3
Ryan Nevius wrote:
Because the whole route is a contrived piece of shit, and at no part is it A6? conclusivesystems.com/danger/ supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1...


Easy aggro, point made...
alleyehave
From San Diego, CA
Joined Jun 12, 2010
175 points
Apr 8, 2014
Mt Minsi, PA
david goldstein wrote:


Yeah, I've belayed off of something like this once. Up on a big ledge, 2nd pitch.
Michael C
From New Jersey
Joined Jun 9, 2011
306 points
Apr 8, 2014
Jonah at P1 Belay Triumvirate Wall
Here is one of my favorites.


Sketchy Anchor
Sketchy Anchor
Jonah Klein
Joined Dec 3, 2013
376 points
Administrator
Apr 8, 2014
Starting the second section of Live to climb anoth...
Brian C. wrote:
I saw this one 2 days ago...

Id use it in a pinch.
Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From Alabama
Joined Jan 18, 2008
5,967 points
Apr 9, 2014
Rapping off the Royal Columns
Top of Prime Cut
Top of Prime Cut
nelsonthad
From Everett, wa
Joined Apr 12, 2007
3,060 points
Apr 9, 2014
CoR
Brad "Stonyman" Killough wrote:
Id use it in a pinch.


You mean if you used it you would get yourself in a pinch. That falls under the "feels good pretend anchor" category.
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Nov 2, 2014
north wash
round 2 woop woop!
round 2 woop woop!
mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
102 points
Nov 3, 2014
CoR
And in sandstone no less. Oh well, its just some crazy canyoneer. rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Nov 4, 2014
On Blanca after traversing from LB
I like this thread. Here are two more I have...


This is the single bolt I rappelled from the summit of the Sword of Damocles]]. The summit block had a single line of old cord but it was much less inspirational than this obviously "quality" bolt. Needless to say, I was quite happy to be back on the ground.


Here is the final rappel anchor on West Pawnee Butte. We had placed another anchor of equalized nails but decided these looked a little more secure. I'd guess they were close to a hundred years old. The webbing was ours, placed from an earlier ascent.
Brian C.
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 9, 2010
904 points
Nov 4, 2014
Soloing upper tiers of Hayes falls
Sketchy T-shirt sleeve and rock anchor.
Sketchy T-shirt sleeve and rock anchor.


This is a t-shirt sleeve anchored into a pocket with a rock.

I stumbled on this in Fort Leonard Wood, MO. I couldn't believe it when I found it.
Arianne Hendrick
From North Pole, AK
Joined Jan 30, 2012
20 points
Nov 4, 2014
Arianne Hendrick wrote:
This is a t-shirt sleeve anchored into a pocket with a rock. I stumbled on this in Fort Leonard Wood, MO. I couldn't believe it when I found it.


Wow. Just wow.
David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Joined Aug 18, 2010
8 points


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