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Apr 11, 2013
Day at Summersville Lake
came across these today and made me think of this thread

thailandrocks.com/safety.htm
Dan Allard
From West Chester, PA
Joined Mar 28, 2011
600 points
Apr 23, 2013
This is why...
How about some international flair? Here are some pictures from an excursion in Korea.

Only American Death Triangle Ive ever used- It was...
Only American Death Triangle Ive ever used- It was in Korea and the 3 person party clipped in prior to me (Im the green sling...)


My all time favorite anchor, also in Korea.
My all time favorite anchor, also in Korea.


This is actually rapping between the 2 anchors pic...
This is actually rapping between the 2 anchors pictured above on a standard 50m rope. Me: "How long is rappel?" Korean: "Twentymeter!!!"
Jesse Morehouse
From CO
Joined May 18, 2006
1,681 points
Apr 23, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Austin Baird wrote:
Climbers might look at these ethics and think they're stupid, but it's really no different than a sport climber thinking that trad climbing is unsafe\idiotic\etc. Once you're more comfortable with canyoneering, you don't even think twice about things like this.


Well, as a climber who's dabbled in canyoneering, I still think some of the anchoring is silly. And, it is slightly different than comparing sport v trad climbing. One of the differences is, at the base of a climbing route, you look up, and, can decide if its for you or not on that day. Once you rap into a canyon, you're pretty committed.

I'm fairly comfortable canyoneering, and, I think twice about things like this a fair bit. Still a fairly warm topic of debate.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
May 18, 2013
north wash
Wow
Wow
mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
102 points
May 19, 2013
Dan Allard wrote:
came across these today and made me think of this thread thailandrocks.com/safety.htm


What the hell.
wankel7
From Indiana
Joined Oct 4, 2010
17 points
May 19, 2013
...
LOL!

Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Jun 4, 2013
Tyrol
I found that pic in an Austrian climbing forum:

source: gipfeltreffen.at
source: gipfeltreffen.at


I think you have to be registered to see the other pics: gipfeltreffen.at/showthread.ph...
trese
From Boulder/Innsbruck/Munich
Joined Apr 22, 2011
164 points
Jun 4, 2013
El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.
Lucky Mr. Mango got pic before the wind blew it out. ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
Joined Aug 22, 2012
145 points
Jun 4, 2013
CoR
mr. mango wrote:


The hangar looks like it was recovered as part of the Titanic ship wreck salvage but the bolt (head at least) isn't rusted. How is that possible?
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Jun 4, 2013
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
rging wrote:
The hangar looks like it was recovered as part of the Titanic ship wreck salvage but the bolt (head at least) isn't rusted. How is that possible?

dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,757 points
Jun 4, 2013
Hippos kill people
This passes for a bomber rap anchor in S Korea
This passes for a bomber rap anchor in S Korea


not even sure how they put the big rusty nail into the solid granite face... but i was happy when i rapped down to the next (sketchy) anchors, this is at the top of Chuinard A and Chuinard B, both great routes at Insubong (B is much better though), just outside of Seoul, SK.
germsauce
Joined Jun 14, 2010
66 points
Jun 4, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Darren Mabe wrote:
dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..


Probably not galvanic corrosion, if it were galvanic corrosion you'd just see corrosion right around where the bolt comes in contact with the hanger. That looks like it's just uniform corrosion on the non-stainless hanger caused by a wet (and possibly salty) environment. The bolt is stainless which is why it still looks good.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,504 points
Jun 4, 2013
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
kennoyce wrote:
Probably not galvanic corrosion, if it were galvanic corrosion you'd just see corrosion right around where the bolt comes in contact with the hanger. That looks like it's just uniform corrosion on the non-stainless hanger caused by a wet (and possibly salty) environment. The bolt is stainless which is why it still looks good.

touche!
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,757 points
Jun 4, 2013
Desert Tortoise


And here I thought this was sketch!
Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Joined Dec 4, 2007
1,767 points
Jun 4, 2013
Desert Tortoise


Of course it's always a great idea to back up brand new shiney bolts with ancient crap!
Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Joined Dec 4, 2007
1,767 points
Jun 5, 2013
Stu Ritchie wrote:
Of course it's always a great idea to back up brand new shiney bolts with ancient crap!

Nice one ! But maybe this is just a bolted bouldering problem... And somebody left the sling during an epic retreat in the middle of a storm ?!
verticon
From Europe
Joined Jul 16, 2008
5 points
Administrator
Jun 7, 2013
Darren Mabe wrote:
dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..


There's no indication of galvanic corrosion in the photo. The bolt and washer are stainless steel. The hanger was probably originally galvanized, but the Zn is long gone, so what you see is common rust.
John Byrnes
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Dec 11, 2007
349 points
Jun 7, 2013
Me at the belay on bear creek spire
mr. mango wrote:

Hey that's my pic! I thought you wrote "post your pics". Uploaded 2011
Brian Snider
From NorCal
Joined Mar 24, 2010
769 points
Jun 7, 2013
Me at the belay on bear creek spire
Bold TextAnd this thread already exists, see here. Brian Snider
From NorCal
Joined Mar 24, 2010
769 points
Jun 9, 2013
Profile Photo
Hangerless bolts should always come with wingnuts.
Hangerless bolts should always come with wingnuts.

Found on the Southwest Face of the Wedge outside of Butte, Montana.
Ty Morrison-Heath
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Mar 22, 2011
2,110 points
Apr 4, 2014
north wash
Hmmm
Hmmm
mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
102 points
Apr 4, 2014
Entirety of the belay and rap anchor on the summit...
Entirety of the belay and rap anchor on the summit of Pt 6350, a towerette near Gateway, CO.
david goldstein
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,689 points
Apr 4, 2014
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...
Ha ha mr. mango - you were there before May 23, 2008I just couldn't bring myself to pull that historical bolt since I had to drill a new hole regardless (very tough to reuse the old hole with ancient rusty 3/8" Star-Dryvins - at least with a hand drill). I don't know what's up with the other old hole, they probably broke the drill bit or the first bolt and had to start again!

New and old, 5/23/08.
New and old, 5/23/08.
Greg Barnes
Joined Apr 10, 2006
1,568 points
Apr 4, 2014
Start of Pitch 3
Can't believe this hasn't been posted. This makes all the rest look bomber...

A6 Anchor
A6 Anchor


"A6" anchor on Fisher Towers
alleyehave
From San Diego, CA
Joined Jun 12, 2010
176 points
Apr 4, 2014
Mt. Agassiz
alleyehave wrote:
Can't believe this hasn't been posted. This makes all the rest look bomber... "A6" anchor on Fisher Towers


Because the whole route is a contrived piece of shit, and at no part is it A6?

conclusivesystems.com/danger/

supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1...
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
782 points


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