Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bad anchors
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 5 of 6.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Dan Allard
From West Chester, PA
Apr 11, 2013
Day at Summersville Lake
came across these today and made me think of this thread

thailandrocks.com/safety.htm

FLAG
By Jesse Morehouse
From CO
Apr 23, 2013
This is why...
How about some international flair? Here are some pictures from an excursion in Korea.

Only American Death Triangle Ive ever used- It was...
Only American Death Triangle Ive ever used- It was in Korea and the 3 person party clipped in prior to me (Im the green sling...)


My all time favorite anchor, also in Korea.
My all time favorite anchor, also in Korea.


This is actually rapping between the 2 anchors pic...
This is actually rapping between the 2 anchors pictured above on a standard 50m rope. Me: "How long is rappel?" Korean: "Twentymeter!!!"

FLAG
By Brian in SLC
Apr 23, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Austin Baird wrote:
Climbers might look at these ethics and think they're stupid, but it's really no different than a sport climber thinking that trad climbing is unsafe\idiotic\etc. Once you're more comfortable with canyoneering, you don't even think twice about things like this.


Well, as a climber who's dabbled in canyoneering, I still think some of the anchoring is silly. And, it is slightly different than comparing sport v trad climbing. One of the differences is, at the base of a climbing route, you look up, and, can decide if its for you or not on that day. Once you rap into a canyon, you're pretty committed.

I'm fairly comfortable canyoneering, and, I think twice about things like this a fair bit. Still a fairly warm topic of debate.

FLAG
By mr. mango
May 18, 2013
north wash
Wow
Wow

FLAG
By wankel7
From Indiana
May 19, 2013
Dan Allard wrote:
came across these today and made me think of this thread thailandrocks.com/safety.htm


What the hell.

FLAG
By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
May 19, 2013
...
LOL!


FLAG
By trese
From Boulder and Innsbruck, Austria
Jun 4, 2013
Tyrol
I found that pic in an Austrian climbing forum:

source: gipfeltreffen.at
source: gipfeltreffen.at


I think you have to be registered to see the other pics: gipfeltreffen.at/showthread.ph...

FLAG
By ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
Jun 4, 2013
El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.
Lucky Mr. Mango got pic before the wind blew it out.

FLAG
 
By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Jun 4, 2013
CoR
mr. mango wrote:


The hangar looks like it was recovered as part of the Titanic ship wreck salvage but the bolt (head at least) isn't rusted. How is that possible?

FLAG
By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 4, 2013
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
rging wrote:
The hangar looks like it was recovered as part of the Titanic ship wreck salvage but the bolt (head at least) isn't rusted. How is that possible?

dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..

FLAG
By germsauce
Jun 4, 2013
Hippos kill people
This passes for a bomber rap anchor in S Korea
This passes for a bomber rap anchor in S Korea


not even sure how they put the big rusty nail into the solid granite face... but i was happy when i rapped down to the next (sketchy) anchors, this is at the top of Chuinard A and Chuinard B, both great routes at Insubong (B is much better though), just outside of Seoul, SK.

FLAG
By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Jun 4, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Darren Mabe wrote:
dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..


Probably not galvanic corrosion, if it were galvanic corrosion you'd just see corrosion right around where the bolt comes in contact with the hanger. That looks like it's just uniform corrosion on the non-stainless hanger caused by a wet (and possibly salty) environment. The bolt is stainless which is why it still looks good.

FLAG
By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 4, 2013
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
kennoyce wrote:
Probably not galvanic corrosion, if it were galvanic corrosion you'd just see corrosion right around where the bolt comes in contact with the hanger. That looks like it's just uniform corrosion on the non-stainless hanger caused by a wet (and possibly salty) environment. The bolt is stainless which is why it still looks good.

touche!

FLAG
By Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Jun 4, 2013
Desert Tortoise


And here I thought this was sketch!

FLAG
By Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Jun 4, 2013
Desert Tortoise


Of course it's always a great idea to back up brand new shiney bolts with ancient crap!

FLAG
By verticon
From Europe
Jun 5, 2013
Stu Ritchie wrote:
Of course it's always a great idea to back up brand new shiney bolts with ancient crap!

Nice one ! But maybe this is just a bolted bouldering problem... And somebody left the sling during an epic retreat in the middle of a storm ?!

FLAG
 
By John Byrnes
Administrator
From Fort Collins, CO
Jun 7, 2013
Darren Mabe wrote:
dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, etc..


There's no indication of galvanic corrosion in the photo. The bolt and washer are stainless steel. The hanger was probably originally galvanized, but the Zn is long gone, so what you see is common rust.

FLAG
By Brian Snider
From NorCal
Jun 7, 2013
Me
mr. mango wrote:

Hey that's my pic! I thought you wrote "post your pics". Uploaded 2011 />

FLAG
By Brian Snider
From NorCal
Jun 7, 2013
Me
Bold TextAnd this thread already exists, see here.

FLAG
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From Bozeman, MT
Jun 9, 2013
Profile Photo
Hangerless bolts should always come with wingnuts.
Hangerless bolts should always come with wingnuts.

Found on the Southwest Face of the Wedge outside of Butte, Montana.

FLAG
By mr. mango
Apr 4, 2014
north wash
Hmmm
Hmmm

FLAG
By david goldstein
Apr 4, 2014
Entirety of the belay and rap anchor on the summit...
Entirety of the belay and rap anchor on the summit of Pt 6350, a towerette near Gateway, CO.

FLAG
By Greg Barnes
Apr 4, 2014
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...
Ha ha mr. mango - you were there before May 23, 2008I just couldn't bring myself to pull that historical bolt since I had to drill a new hole regardless (very tough to reuse the old hole with ancient rusty 3/8" Star-Dryvins - at least with a hand drill). I don't know what's up with the other old hole, they probably broke the drill bit or the first bolt and had to start again!

New and old, 5/23/08.
New and old, 5/23/08.

FLAG
By alleyehave
From San Diego, CA
Apr 4, 2014
Start of Pitch 3
Can't believe this hasn't been posted. This makes all the rest look bomber...

A6 Anchor
A6 Anchor


"A6" anchor on Fisher Towers

FLAG
 
By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Apr 4, 2014
Mt. Agassiz
alleyehave wrote:
Can't believe this hasn't been posted. This makes all the rest look bomber... "A6" anchor on Fisher Towers


Because the whole route is a contrived piece of shit, and at no part is it A6?

conclusivesystems.com/danger/

supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1...

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 5 of 6.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>