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By Buff Johnson
Mar 13, 2013
smiley face
Austin Baird wrote:
I recommend that every canyoneer carry a Jake Day for emergency anchoring purposes. 275 pounds of Wyoming-bred anchoring awesomeness.


Can a Jake Day be used as a snow anchor?

FLAG
By Matty H
Mar 23, 2013
Top of pear buttress
Pear buttress
Pear buttress


Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so...

FLAG
By Miike
From MA/CT border
Mar 24, 2013
my foot
Matty H wrote:
Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so...


this reminds me of the old anchor on Sinsemilla Crack in the Wasatch

FLAG
By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 24, 2013
...
"Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so..."


Looks pretty SOLID to me. Not sure how "SKETCH" that makes it.

FLAG
By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Mar 25, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Locker wrote:
Looks pretty SOLID to me. Not sure how "SKETCH" that makes it.


Just what I was thinking.

FLAG
By Brian C.
From Longmont, CO
Mar 25, 2013
On Blanca after traversing from LB
Locker wrote:
"Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so..." Looks pretty SOLID to me. Not sure how "SKETCH" that makes it.


Me too! When I think of sketchy anchors I think of stuff like this...

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By sanz
From Raleigh, NC
Mar 25, 2013
One of my first trad leads, on Ooga Chocka at Crow...
Matty H wrote:
Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so...


That thing is bomber!

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By Timothy
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Mar 25, 2013
Whitehorse
Classic
Courtesy of the Bird
Courtesy of the Bird

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By Jace Mullen
From Oceanside, Ca
Mar 25, 2013
That RURP anchor is awesome!

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By mr. mango
Apr 2, 2013
north wash
What?
What?

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By Pitty
From Marbach
Apr 3, 2013
My cool Elly....
what - what????
If we go on stretched rope we do the same..... and it looks like it's pretty easy terrain.....

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By mr. mango
Apr 4, 2013
north wash
It's just that they sort of look like paper clips with a caribiner attached.

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By ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Apr 4, 2013
Aesthetics
Hmmmm
Hmmmm

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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Apr 4, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
mr. mango wrote:
It's just that they sort of look like paper clips with a caribiner attached.


That's a Raumer stainless in-line anchor set and is about as bomber as an anchor can get.

FLAG
By Kenan
Apr 4, 2013
Shelf Rd
Here's a nice one:
sketch-tastic
sketch-tastic


Taken from Eli's site... he's got a couple of other good ones too
climbinglife.com/beta/tech-tip...

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By mr. mango
Apr 4, 2013
north wash
kennoyce wrote:
That's a Raumer stainless in-line anchor set and is about as bomber as an anchor can get.

Fine it just looks thin to me. I will stick with my chains.

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By Ian Stewart
Apr 4, 2013
mr. mango wrote:
Fine it just looks thin to me. I will stick with my chains.

Those ARE chains, they just happen to be longer chain links than you're used to. Those anchors are rated to 27kN: raumerclimbing.com/eng/prodott...

I'm disappointed with how bomber most of the anchors are in this thread...

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By Ian Stewart
Apr 4, 2013
Kenan wrote:
Here's a nice one: Taken from Eli's site... he's got a couple of other good ones too climbinglife.com/beta/tech-tip...


OK, that's a bad anchor. As if rusty pitons don't scare me enough, that whole anchor is rigged such that the failure of any piece will result in the failure of the entire system. It would have taken zero extra effort and gear to make that anchor much, much, much safer.

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By Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Apr 4, 2013
Living the High Life.
I'll add some:
Bomber!
Bomber!


Rap anchor on the Petit Grepon, 2008
Two ancient pins back up by two frayed knots in the crack. Ugh.


Totally Bomber!
Totally Bomber!

Anchor in Leprechaun Canyon, Main Fork, 2013, a bag of sand buried in more sand with a small rock on top. Ugghhhhh.

Canyoneers are crazy. Old single bolt or drilled pin rap anchors in sandstone are de rigor in the canyons of the Colorado Plateau. Climbers like us are pansies in comparison.

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By Kenan
Apr 4, 2013
Shelf Rd
Andy Novak wrote:
Anchor in Leprechaun Canyon, Main Fork, 2013, a bag of sand buried in more sand with a small rock on top. Ugghhhhh


Wow, takes the term 'sandbagged' to a whole new level, eh?

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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Apr 4, 2013
blah
I will vouch for the sand trap being a stupid thing that will hold body weight. by no means would i start praising its virtues but it works. also the Christmas present Deadman is pretty effective and terrifying anchor... but hey I am no canyoneer

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By wankel7
From Indiana
Apr 5, 2013
MIYG wrote:


That is the reason I carry nuts with me :p

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 5, 2013
Andy Novak wrote:
Climbers like us are pansies in comparison.


Well they aren't planning on holding falls with their anchors...

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By Gwut
Apr 5, 2013
Me





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By michaeltarne
Apr 5, 2013
The nylon on nylon action in that one isn't optimal, but the thread looks solid enough.

FLAG


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