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Bad anchor in Bolton
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By John Husky
Sep 15, 2012
Climbed Chockstone at upper west Bolton, VT today. A friend said that one of two new bolts at the anchor had been removed by hand recently. Sounded like the hole size was not ideal for the bolt size. Seems like a reasonable mistake for anyone to make. So I get to the anchor and the is some newish slings chained up with a non-locking biner to match up with the remaining bolt (one of the big hangers you can put the rope right through).

Good enough except the tree is 8-10" in diameter in almost no soil and dead as dead can be. As in not one scrap of bark on the entire tree (scotch pine). Oh, and the bolt is such that you can remove the nut by hand (I did) then when tightened you could wiggle the bolt.

I moved on to a living tree for a belay. My partner pulled the bolt out with his hands only. It was quite short ~2.5", seems to me, I never place the things. The sweet tat on the dead pine is still there though.

Plan on a walk off. I can get the hanger back for anyone who knows how to place a bolt, and has ever done it before.

Did this person place any of the other myriad bolts in Bolton?WTF

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By Travis Peckham
Sep 22, 2012
I'm pretty sure I know who placed these anchor bolts and the party involved is not responsible for many other bolts in Vermont. So we can rest easier on that thought. That said, schist is pretty soft rock, so be careful out there.

I'm very glad that the anchor is now out and that no one got hurt. Hopefully it will be replaced soon...

Travis

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By John Husky
Sep 22, 2012
Thanks. That made me nervous.

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