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Redgarden - S Buttress
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YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a R

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jimmy Ratzliff & Austin Weis - 1987
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 336
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 26, 2002
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  • Description 

    This climb starts between Backtalk and the Bulge, up the center of the low angle "ramp" system that sticks out from the wall right at the ground. Once you locate the two bolts of Blackwalk, look right and locate the two bolts of Backtalk. Careful inspection further right will reveal three more bolts - this is Backstroke. The first two bolts are decent, the third is actually a thin piton up and right, on easier ground.

    Climb straight up to the first bolt using a pinch/undercling to work your feet up. This is probably solid 11b. Clip the first bolt, and execute a very hard move using a tiny side pull for the left hand and a good highstep for the left foot - reaching up to a decent but sloping "ledge". I dyno'd for this and slapped it several times - it was very hard, but my partner was able to reach it statically - definitely the way to go. The climbing gradually eases through the second bolt. From here head up and right to the third bolt on easy climbing, then carefully head straight left for 20' to the Backtalk anchors.


    Three bolts protect this routes, and probably very small cams and RPs. I TR'd this route and recommend this (although setting it up can be tricky). Although I didn't spend a lot of time looking for gear placements, the climb struck me as being a dangerous lead - especially reaching the first bolt.

    Comments on Backstroke Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 28, 2002

    There are some adequate HB or RP placements in the left-angling crack down and left from the bolt. These will probably keep you off the ramp if your belayer is on the ball. Poorly bolted route.

    By steve dieckhoff
    Oct 28, 2002

    While I'm not surprised that there have been complaints about getting to the 1st bolt I think the sequence is about 5.9-.10a (not .11b anyway) and your belayer should always be alert on every route - otherwise why have them belay? I think the description misses a hold at the crux that eliminates wild dynos. The presence of bolts on a route in Eldo does not signify that it is a sport climb.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 29, 2002

    However, a route that was bolted ON RAPPEL such that everyone has to struggle to clip the first bolt (except perhaps the 6-foot 7-inch tall first ascentionist) is a poorly-bolted route.

    By steve dieckhoff
    Oct 29, 2002

    To: anonymous coward - What is your point about the bolts being placed on rappel? This route has been led plenty of times from the ground up, though not by everyone who tries. Would you prefer that the bolts be 1/4" placed on the lead? There must be some assumptions underlying your remark.The ACE FHRC doesn't permit bolting on the lead and while this route was done before the FHRC came about I don't think it's now in the spirit of 'preserving the Eldo experience' to demand that all approved routes be sport climb clip-ups.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 29, 2002

    Point one: the bolts were placed on rappel. Point two: for being placed on rappel, the first bolt is extremely hard to clip unless you are extremely tall. Not too much of a deeper meaning in those comments.