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Test Pilots Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Backdoor Man T,S 
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 
Flakes of Bake T 
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 
Focus T,S 
Gimme three steps... T,S 
Kennedy Space Port T 
Kosmonauts T,S 
Rocket Science T 
Space Monkey T,S 
Test Pilots S 
Weight and Balance Check T,S 

Backdoor Man 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doc Bayne, Nick Williams
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Feb 23, 2012

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Description 

This bold, steep route is another memorable Doc Bayne adventure. Savor it.

Crank the creaky flakes to a nice crack section. Follow the crack up to a bolt and a stance. Climb past 2 more bolts(steep)into a right facing arch. Plug in a key cam or nut midway up the arch(hard to place)and blast up to jugs. Finish up the left facing crack/flake to the top.

The climbing is 4 star but the rock is less than perfect.

Location 

Starts right of "Flakes of Wrath" at a steep broken crack/flake system.

Protection 

Best led on doubles due to sharp flakes but can be done on a single with proper slinging. Small to medium nuts, cams to red BD size.


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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Feb 24, 2014

4 star movement, 1 star rock quality.