|(1) Backdoor (B1)
The southernmost climbing area in Long Dong. This area is rarely climbed, as the bolts are old, the anchors untrustworthy, and the routes short. If anchors were bolted, this area could see a resurgence in popularity, as it has a very short approach and the routes are mostly moderate. For the time being, most routes can be setup for top-rope with trad gear. The shallow cave is in the shade in the early afternoon. Sometimes the depression in the rock in the middle of the platform fills up with water and makes for a nice pool. Otherwise, when tides are calm, you can walk out Crocodile Cape and swim in the inlet, but be careful as there are strong currents and sneaker waves.
By car: Continue along Highway 2 past the driveway into Schoolgate until you come to a tunnel. Right affter emerging from the tunnel, there will be a large temple to the left. Turn into this driveway and continue up to the parking lot. There are bathrooms and vending machines here, although restocking of the machines seems sporadic at best. On the right side of the parking lot is a staircase leading down to a gazebo and telescopes. Continue down this trail onto the cliff trail. Follow this trail down to a stone staircase and continue to hike down to the left.
9 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For (1) Backdoor (B1)
Water Heater Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Oceania
: ... : (1) Backdoor (B1)
From the cave below the stairs, contine right until you step around the corner above the Basement descent. Locate a bolt on the left (inside) of the arete which goes straight up to a ledge 60' above. Climb around the right side of the gray arete, using the big horizontals on the face and the arete. The bolts may be old, but the climbing above the first bolt is really easy. The exposure is what makes this a classic. Bring small cams to supplement the bolts.Optional: Continue up to the desc...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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|Comments on (1) Backdoor (B1)
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
May 20, 2012
The word "Backdoor" or 後門 (Hňumén) is used to refer to the entire southern area, including the B1, Basement, Old Man Wall, and Little Turtle Island crags. However, most people mean it strictly as the Basement, which is where the crowds flock to.
As you walk down the shoulder of a small cliff identified by the notable overhang, there is a terrace of rock below you. All routes in the "Backdoor" begin on this terrace. Once you drop down that notch in the rock, you have entered the "Basement." This refers to everything between Dragon's Pole and Hermit Crab; basically until the wall gets flat, black, and seemingly featureless. This is "Old Man Wall." Then you have Crocodile Cape aka Little Turtle Mountain...
To approach this southern area, park at the temple just past the tunnel. Descend past the small viewing area towards the beach. The areas of the Backdoor, Basement, Old Man Wall, and Crocodile Cape are mostly self-contained. That is, unless the tide is really low and calm, it would be impossible (or exceedingly dangerous) to walk from the southern area to the Catwalk and beyond.