|***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
On April 10,1999, John Rzyczecki and I started up a new route on the southeast face of the West Temple. The route, Back Where it All Begins (VI 5.11a A3+), follows the obvious diagonal line up the center of the wall facing Springdale. We spent 12 days completing the route, rappelling on April 22, 8 nights were spent on the wall. The route involved 16 60-meter rope-stretching pitches with bolted belays. Eighty percent of the lower wall was great free climbing, with little aid necessary. Almost all of the last eight pitches required thin aid. Expect 4-5 nights on the wall if hauling water, food and gear.......
See topo below in photos.
Southeast face of the West Temple. The obvious diagonal line up the center of the clean, blonde headwall. Rappel the route.
Many of the headwall pitches are 180'-200' in length. I think it was the 13th and 14th pitches that required 17+ hammer placements along with an assortment of nuts and cams. Bird Beaks, knifeblades, lost arrows, a assortment of angles and hooks(Ibis) were required to get up this monster of a wall. At least 150 carabiners! Thin nuts to large offwidth gear. There are bolted anchors at the end of each pitch which allow for a direct descent.... Only 3 bolts were placed in the field of climbing!
From: SL UT
Apr 12, 2010
Sounds pretty epic!
By karl kvashay
From: cedar city, utah
Sep 25, 2014
what a line! nice work!