Rattlesnake Buttress is known for it's two classic 5.8 cracks, 200 Motels and Taken for Granite. This is the (and until recently, overlooked) crack to the right. Same start as the other 2 but hand traverse right (foot traverse possible but not as fun) and head up cracks on the edge of the buttress. A great variation is the splitter seam leading up to the middle crack of the three (try not to stem to the right!).
Standard rack up to 3".
The overlooked 3rd crack.
The cool direct variation.
Getting back on my feet after the hands traverse
From: Lyons, CO
Feb 11, 2007
It's like Deja Vu all over again.
|By Kyle Wills|
From: San Diego CA
Jan 7, 2010
So definitely went to Rattlesnake Buttress with the intent on climbing the two classic lines. Knew both had the same start and one branched left and the other right. My girlfriend and her friend were climbing with me and had the guidebook in hand when we arrived. We had no information about the descent and worried about possibly needing two ropes for a Taken for Granite rappel. However, its seemed the obvious gully to the right of the formation offered a walk off for 200. I climbed up to be sure and found the perfect belay ledge at the top of 200. However, I thought I was standing on top of the far right line ( which I now know is Back-up singers) which I believed to be 200 motels and the ladies with guide in hand told me the same, and the middle crack was the lesser unknown one. So I took off and led the beautiful lesser travelled Back up singers and had an ultra blast. However where the route ends is not the best belay stance and I would suggest to everyone who does this route to do as I did and continue up the blunt arrete of the buttress which is very easy to climb and protect, and set-up the belay at the top of 200 motels. Said ledge offers a much safer descent into the gully as well.
From: Joshua Tree, California
Nov 25, 2012
FA: Todd Gordon, Dan Adler 3-96 (unless someone else has an earlier ascent...)......
|By Richard Shore|
Dec 23, 2012
IMO this line is as good as 200 Motels.