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By jbird
Apr 22, 2012

How many people would trade in all their modern gear, guide books, MP etc. to be a climber back in the 60's-80's. Think of all the spandex, head bands, cheap gas, and heavy unsophisticated gear being used to climb virgin rock with no crowds. humm. . . ?


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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Apr 22, 2012

I Like living and splitters. And hexes do not translate to allowing that to happen. And I am not Leyton Kor so that is not a fair argument.


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Apr 22, 2012

Check out the film "Midnight in Paris". It adresses your feelings of nostalgia, and I tend to agree with it's premise that "the god old days" weren't all that good, and the people living there are/were just as discontented as you are about your time period.

More specifically, I think what we modern climbers have going for us is the ability to do a high volume of climbing in a short time, which just wasnt available to our predecessors. Twenty-thirty years ago it would take a lifetime of dedication to get to 5.12, now many climbers can get there in a couple years or less, thanks to gyms, training knowledge and quick access to good climbs


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By Woodchuck ATC
Apr 22, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

I"d gor for it...the golden age of the 60's to about 73' in the Valley would be my choice of years to be with the legends of that time.


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By Superclimber
Apr 22, 2012

I like living in the future too. But I totally respect the crusty old trad dogs.


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By APBT1976
Apr 22, 2012
Black Dike 12/25/11

Imop we humans hold our self in a way higher regard then we deserve..

The future is completely overrated. What is so wrong with now or better yet yesterday.

Silly humans always looking towards progress instead of just enjoying all the great things right in front of them.

All the while the cause of their own problems in most cases the first to bitch about their problems that they in some way brought upon them self and then think they have the answer to fixing the problems by creating more.

Sorry what most humans call progress is not my idea of progress.

I would have to side with spandex and hexes i suppose on the other hand we have what we have so i enjoy that. I am not however very interested in improving on it. I am not that important!

Each to his own i suppose, seems the only realistic answer?


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Apr 22, 2012
perfect seam

The future is completely overrated. What is so wrong with now or better yet yesterday. Silly humans always looking towards progress instead of just enjoying all the great things right in front of them. quote>

like the computer right in front of you. ya that took some silly people looking towards progress instead of just shutting down their brains and living with what they have. people do achieve and bring to fruition the ideas that are created in their minds. fucking engineering, physics, chemistry, math, language, writing, electricity, plumbing, heating, road systems, vehicles, cams, ropes, ice axes, etc. those bastards who use their creativity and brains need to stop!


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By juzzzme
Apr 22, 2012

I'm down for the 70s gas prices


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By APBT1976
Apr 22, 2012
Black Dike 12/25/11

Anyone else see on 60 Minutes or Prime Time last night a bunch of rich fucktard's are gonna start mining outer space.

My opinion on the subject is based more in this type of attitude and behavior than anything else. We as humans seem to think we are so dam important thus entitled to do whatever the fuck we want.

I just just do not think we are that impressive nor important that we should be drilling in outer space to keep are precious little planet spinning round and round?

Chances are if this does come to fruition sooner or later it will just end up like so many of our other so called bright ideas and solutions putting a temporary band aid on the root of our problems only to allow the problem to grow all the while allowing enough time to convince the masses the problem isis fixed. Chances are things like this create more and much bigger problem long term and in the end will knock our precious little planet write outa the sky.

70's gas prices are not gonna happen and now that we are were we are yes we gotta do something about it. But at what point do we buck up as people and admit that most any way of preserving the masses is ultimately leading to our own demise and just let be what is instead of trying to fix it all so we can have it all "so we think at least" trading a solution for today's problems for bigger problems tomorrow.

The math adds up for the masses and most short sighted humans imop. I think if you get out of the self preserving short sighted mentality for just a minute you see it does not add up in the end. Again i also feel we as humans and this life on earth are not as import as we have gone making our self or it out to be. I don't expect many will agree with me and most will dismiss my opinion as some crazy person blah blah blah. All one has to do is watch step outside in the world and it is pretty clear at the what is and is not a priority to the majority and that my opinion is not very popular.

Self Preservation i say self preservation!

I'm all for hexes, nuts, tri cams if i really had to choose.




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By jbird
Apr 22, 2012

I think I would miss digging through guide books and MP for areas I want to explore, I think it's fun doing researching for a trip. Back in the day so much was unknown, it would be difficult but also I feel climbing would be more of an adventure. There might be days when little, if any climbing even happens. . . but as long as I'm out with friends exploring nature I think I would be satisfied. Now with all the access to information we can get into an area and climb a lot of stuff in less time, time management is such a big deal. However saying this I realize I could just set out into the unknown but like I said I like to plan and research places. So I don't know which is better. Honestly I get scared climbing on top notch gear now so I probably wouldn't get too far back in the day just having some crazy climber tell me everything is groovy.

I wasn't intending to suggest traveling back in time, but imagine the minds you would blow if you brought a modern rack to Indian Creek or to the Chief pre-cam era.


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By Ed Wright
Apr 22, 2012
Magic Ed

juzzzme wrote:
I'm down for the 70s gas prices


No, no, no...gas was expensive by the mid 70's. You want to go to the 60's when gas was 25 cents a gallon.


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By Gunkiemike
Apr 22, 2012

Ah, 1973. When men were men...and 5.8 was aided.


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Apr 22, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

APBT1976 wrote:
Anyone else see on 60 Minutes or Prime Time last night a bunch of rich fucktard's are gonna start mining outer space. My opinion on the subject is based more in this type of attitude and behavior than anything else. We as humans seem to think we are so dam important thus entitled to do whatever the fuck we want. I just just do not think we are that impressive nor important that we should be drilling in outer space to keep are precious little planet spinning round and round? Chances are if this does come to fruition sooner or later it will just end up like so many of our other so called bright ideas and solutions putting a temporary band aid on the root of our problems only to allow the problem to grow all the while allowing enough time to convince the masses the problem isis fixed. Chances are things like this create more and much bigger problem long term and in the end will knock our precious little planet write outa the sky. 70's gas prices are not gonna happen and now that we are were we are yes we gotta do something about it. But at what point do we buck up as people and admit that most any way of preserving the masses is ultimately leading to our own demise and just let be what is instead of trying to fix it all so we can have it all "so we think at least" trading a solution for today's problems for bigger problems tomorrow. The math adds up for the masses and most short sighted humans imop. I think if you get out of the self preserving short sighted mentality for just a minute you see it does not add up in the end. Again i also feel we as humans and this life on earth are not as import as we have gone making our self or it out to be. I don't expect many will agree with me and most will dismiss my opinion as some crazy person blah blah blah. All one has to do is watch step outside in the world and it is pretty clear at the what is and is not a priority to the majority and that my opinion is not very popular. Self Preservation i say self preservation! I'm all for hexes, nuts, tri cams if i really had to choose.


We are the only thing in the entire universe that we know of that puts any importance on importance... so if we suddenly collectively decide WE'RE not "worth" preserving, what, pray-tell, is?


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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Apr 22, 2012
Me and Spearhead

Mike Anderson wrote:
Twenty-thirty years ago it would take a lifetime of dedication to get to 5.12, now many climbers can get there in a couple years or less, thanks to gyms, training knowledge and quick access to good climbs


Grade inflation helps a lot in this respect... if Chuck Norris doesn't call it a 12, it doesn't count.


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Apr 22, 2012

Grade inflation is a myth, IMO. If you think o lf trad routes are "harder", it probably means you're missing some skill that is necessary for the route. The fact that most people practice in climbing gyms means that any routes resembling gym climbing wil feel easier to most people, but it didn't mean they are easier.


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By jbird
Apr 22, 2012

Chuck Norris doesn't climb 12's he allows them to help him get a better perspective when looking for his next victim.

Chuck Norris doesn't climb 5.12's he climbs 512's

. . . wow, I will do anything to avoid writing this paper right now.


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By Superclimber
Apr 22, 2012

Chris Miller wrote:
I like living in the future too. But I totally respect the crusty old trad dogs.

Edit to add: Except for spandex, spandex was/is stupid.


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By Ed Wright
Apr 23, 2012
Magic Ed

Chris Miller wrote:
Edit to add: Except for spandex, spandex was/is stupid.


Have you ever climbed in spandex tights? It is by far the most comfortable climbing apparel ever--feels like it's giving you extra support. Don't knock it 'til you've tried it!


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By Joe Huggins
From 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Apr 23, 2012
mmmm....tree

Ed Wright wrote:
Have you ever climbed in spandex tights? It is by far the most comfortable climbing apparel ever--feels like it's giving you extra support. Don't knock it 'til you've tried it!

The lycra era was the happiest time of my life! Belayed CG on a photo op on je t'aime; he in lycra with a bunch of french writing, me with italian. After the photos, he suggests we go to Le Francais for coffee and pastries (midday). All the other customers are rich housewives. . .not sure what they thought.


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