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North Cliffband
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Back to Montana 
Cochiti Classic 
Cochiti Ugly 
Empty and Meaningless 
Feminist Men 
Grunge Up the Munge 
Gunning for the Buddha 
Holy Wars 
La Espina 
Laurel's Climb 
Monkey Lust 
Montana Deviate 
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride 
Napoleon Blown-Apart 
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) 
Pickpocket 
Praise the Lunge 
Thief Crack 
Thief in Time 
To Catch A Thief 
Touch Monkey 
Unknown 
Unknown - Boulder Left 

Back to Montana 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Sheftel, Couleur
Page Views: 265
Submitted By: Jason Hundhausen on Sep 7, 2008
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Into the good buckets past the first bolt on B...

Description 

Back to Montana climbs the face just to the left of Holy Wars. The crux moves are right off the deck, and the first bolt is about 15 feet up, so you may want to use a clip-stick. Begin in a sinker 2 finger pocket with the right hand and a shallow 2 finger pocket with the left, lock off and stretch out to reach another sinker with the right (good clipping pocket). Move past the first bolt (second crux) to a series of buckets leading to a ledge. It's run-out to the fourth bolt and there is an opportunity to place a TCU, but the climbing is quite a bit easier. Find the final crux moves as you head up to the newly installed 1/2" anchors.


Location 

10 feet left of Holy Wars


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor



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By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Aug 3, 2009

When I did this in the early 90's it was rated 11a. I thought it was pretty damn pumpy for 11a. Now I know why.