Back in the Saddle
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.2 from 37 votes
Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Darren Knezek |
Page Views: | 1,615 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | jtwalter on Sep 17, 2007 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
A bouldery start leads to sharp jugs, big slopers and airy moves.
The crux of the route is probably getting off the ground. There are two variations to the start:
The right variation is .10d and starts with a very bouldery move after which you move to the left to clip the second bolt. You can clip the first bolt from the ground. The move is committing and feels rather stiff for the grade.
The left variation to the start is .11a and feels quite a bit harder than the .10d variation. The route continues straight up from here.
Redpoint crux is probably climbing past the 5th bolt.
The crux of the route is probably getting off the ground. There are two variations to the start:
The right variation is .10d and starts with a very bouldery move after which you move to the left to clip the second bolt. You can clip the first bolt from the ground. The move is committing and feels rather stiff for the grade.
The left variation to the start is .11a and feels quite a bit harder than the .10d variation. The route continues straight up from here.
Redpoint crux is probably climbing past the 5th bolt.
Location
Route starts on the left side of Superbowl Wall. It's the 3rd route from the left on Superbowl Wall, immediately to the right of Sick at 17000.
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