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Redgarden - S Buttress
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Back in Black 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Brooks, Andrea Azoff, 1989.
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,068
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
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  • Description 

    This is a really cool route and is also very safe. It is the next route over from Blackwalk. The difficulties start at the first bolt with a burly .11a/b move over a bulge. Very sustained climbing on a steep wall leads to the final crux, a hard move off a less than vertical greasy sloping rail.


    Protection 

    This route is probably the best protected route on the Bulge Wall. Getting to the first bolt is a little hairy because of loose holds, a small cam might help here. The second bolt is a spinner if that bothers you.



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    By Nate Weitzel
    Dec 11, 2001

    I have only heard people calling this 11c/d. My own rating would be 11+, and I generally consider myself a sandbagger. I think 11a is quite a stretch for this one, compared to its neighbors to the right. The upper crux is thin, continuous and definitely harder than 11a. I understand the desire not to inflate routes (and egos), but it is possible to do the opposite and inflate your ego by calling this route a paltry 11a. My sermon back to you for the day.

    By Shane Z
    From: Colorado
    Oct 14, 2007

    I top-roped this about two months ago and remember it covered with aging lichen and dirty rock. However, it is well protected. Thin, difficult moves throughout. A sport climb not for the faint of heart.

    By Scott Bennett
    Jan 19, 2010
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

    Very nice, Eldo-cryptic climbing. Potentially a classic when linked into "Blacktop" for a 180' full-value pitch. Not dangerous, but it does seem like this would be a bad spot to be taking whippers (lots of little ledges or slabs to hit).
    -Scott

    By Kevin Meyers
    Oct 27, 2012

    The .11a I believe they are referring to is at the first bolt were you begin your commitment to this climb. Some people have quite a bit of trouble here if they are not strong climbers or lack a bouldering style. The intimidation factor (spacing between bolts - scary, black rock) seem to keep some people from boldly going for it at this bolt. Near the end of this pitch, even though the bolt is at your feet on the crux, 20+ footers are common due to slack/rope stretch but should be perfectly safe. If you do this route enough times, I think every one takes it at least once. I almost hit the ramp once due to a very inattentive belayer, so make sure your partner knows where the crux is and isn't "slacking".