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 ADVANCED
The Barkeater Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ASPCA T 
Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 
Because Dogs Can (P1) T 
Big Bertha T 
Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 
Finger It Out T 
Flexi Flyer T 
Fun City T 
Fun Country T 
Good Dough T,TR 
Lick It Up T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mr. Dirty T 
On The Leash T 
Overdog T 
Rule of the Bone T 
Yakapodu T 

Bachelors and Bowery Bums 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: aghetie on Aug 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Bachelors and Bowery Bums

Description 

A more sustained version of its neighbor to the left, both on the slab start and on the steeper section above. Non-obvious crux move.

Location 

10 feet up and right from the start of Yakapodu.

Protection 

Did not lead the route, but it looked like the crux could only be protected with thin grear below.


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By Josh Brown
Jul 13, 2015

Aghetie is correct about needing to protect the crux (thin flaring tips crack before the square ceiling) from below. Unless you had small offset cams/nuts nothing will seat in the crack leaving you to commit to a fall if you blow the moves to gain the top of the right facing corner. I convinced myself a #4 BD nut was good enough and wound up taking a 20 footer onto the ledge bruising my calcaneus pretty badly. Definitely going to track down a #3 offset mastercam once I heal up. Having just sent Mr. Clean I was complacent and quickly got my ego checked.
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