Pitch 1: 5.11, 50m.
Start by climbing around two ears, each with a bolt. Gain the dihedral and climb up past one bolt at the beginning, followed by lots of stemming, shallow flaring jams, and climbing past seams; sustained. End at the two bolt anchor.
This pitch has somewhat tricky pro. Safe, but awkward to place, as there are few stances.
Pitch 2: 5.11+, 32m.
Begin with cruxy moves right off the belay. Layback, chimney, and stem up the acute corner past several small roofs; bolt protected, crux.
At the last bolt step left around the corner and climb up to a stance. Move left into a crack and follow it until you can go straight up the same crack system; steep, dirty, and off size, or hand traverse left into a steep, clean, hand crack (recommended).
Approach from the top of Divide Road.
As you are driving up the road you want to pull over at the first open area you see on the right. You will see a relatively flat granite area, clear of trees, and with a few small cairns made of sandstone.
Walk out onto the flat area and walk along looking from rap bolts at the edge. There are several sets in the area. This is the route farthest left (climber's right) in the area with rap bolts.
The bolts are on a small ledge with a very small pine tree growing right on the edge.
Rap down and right around a corner, you will see bolts in a dihedral. Find the second rap station. From here, rap to a ledge at the top of third class ledges, immediately below the first bolt. Both are double rope raps.
Nuts and cams: Double set cams from tips to hands, one #4 Friend or equivalent.
|By Jesse Zacher|
From: Grand Junction, Co
Feb 3, 2012
This is a great route that is on a good chunk of rock. The two pitches offer very different and unique climbing. In hindsight, the 1st pitch belay should have been moved slightly out of the way. Regardless, it is a great route put up with a great friend!