An excellent, slowly widening, finger crack on the far right side of Cat Wall, immediately right of the long 5.10 splitter (right of Fat Cat). Two stars at Cat Wall, solid three stars anywhere else.
Begin with a boulder problem start protected by tiny cams to get off the ground. The meat of the climb is the 25 foot middle section where the crack widens from tips with decent feet, to fingers with crappy feet. As with most of the classic Indian Creek finger cracks, I found the crux to be actually getting in some kind of stance to place gear.
purple metolius for the start. Double set of cams from tips to thin hands. One hand sized piece for finish.
Me and Aaron racing...I think I chose my route poo...
|By Max Schon|
Feb 12, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Two blue aliens or purple TCUs will protect the start nicely. I don't recall any tips on this climb. More like bomber finger locks most of the way. The crux is bomber locks without feet. Purple Camalots work nicely.
|By Rich Farnham|
Mar 9, 2005
A fun route that goes through all sizes of fingers and isn't any one size for very long. You could do this without an arsenal of the same size cams.
There is a short tips section at the start. It's just a boulder problem up to a good rest, and is well protected. There are a few crimpers on the face as well, but they aren't very good.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Nov 14, 2011
Whew! Highstep off the nice ledge onto some bad feet next to your chin while crimping on some slopey crimps to gain access to the crack, or yard on red c3. Hard start. The crack itself is great, with decent feet appearing here and there. Doubles in finger sizes.