Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rincon - L of Center Route
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Bondage 
Aerial Book 
Aerohead 
Aeronaut 
Aerospace 
Arete Bandit 
Bachar Yer Aryan 
Bat's Ass Dihedral 
Brevitata 
Climb Of The Century 
Cuban Bluegrass 
Emerald City 
Evictor, The 
Faulty Logic 
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The 
Fraid Line 
Kaisho 
Kangaroo Tail 
Leisure Time Arete 
Must'a Been High 
N.I.C 
Over and Out 
Over the Hill 
Scenic Route 
Surf's Up 
Trident 
Ventura Highway 
Wendego 
Windy 

Bachar Yer Aryan 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Clint and DeMaille
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 1,306
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 6, 2003
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Getting ready to top out on the arete. Double Rope...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Bolt protected thin slabbing featuring micro-crimping. This pitch is essentially a connector between pitch three of Over the Hill and Aeronaut. A more in character way to get to the start would be via Aerial Book.

Start as for Over The Hill P3. Cut right to reach a pin about 15' up. From the pin follow bolts which traverse right to the Aeronaut arete. The crux is after the fourth bolt, at a section of rock that appears completely devoid of handholds until you launch into it. Clipping the post crux bolt is pretty tough -- if you've got the stomach for it, it's probably easier to go another move past the intended clip hold before clipping. After this clip, the arete is reached, at which point footholds reappear and you can catch your breath. The next bolt is on the right side of the arete. Clip it and climb up a move until you can see a bolt to the left of the arete, at the same height as, and two feet to the side of, the bolt you just clipped. Move your runner to the left bolt to allow the rope to run better, then continue up the arete to the walkoff ledge, with most moves being easier than they first appear.

This pitch felt like sustained 5.10 except for the crux which felt like hard 11, especially if you're not dialed into thin this style of climbing. The scarce, binary nature of the holds on this pitch might make it easier for those with long reaches.


Protection 

Two or three small to medium nuts for the first 15'. These are followed by a pin and about 8 bolts. A couple of long slings are handy.



Comments on Bachar Yer Aryan Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Jun 13, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I climbed this awhile ago as an alternate to P3 of Over the Hill (which by the way is one of my favorite .9's in the canyon). I thought this was a great route that amde you commit to get to the holds you needed . It looks blank and hard from the ground but once you get into micro-crimps seem to appear just as you need them. Clipping from the arete was quite spicy.

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Feb 18, 2011

This has got to be one of the better parody route names I've seen. I truly want to climb it just so I can drop the name and laugh...