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BETA PHOTO: Erik leading P1 of Baby. May 2, 2010
If you can't climb wide cracks, this route will seem a lot harder than 5.6!
From the Uberfall, walk about 2.5 minutes down the carriage road, past the big corner and roof of Matinee, to a huge boulder just below the cliff. Take the access trail just beyond the boulder, and angle left to the cliff, on the left side of the huge boulder. Baby is the striking, widening crack directly above the access trail.
P1: Climb the crack to the wide section. Place a 3-4" piece for pro, and head up into the offwidth (crux). A 5-inch piece is necessary if you want gear to protect the crux; otherwise you're at least 5-10' above gear as you commit to the wide. Continue up the face above to a big ledge with lots of loose rock and a bolt-and-chain anchor. 5.6, 80'.
P2: Climb a left-facing corner and an overhang to the top. This pitch can be sandy after a recent rain. 5.6, 60'.
It is possible to rappel with one rope from slings on a tree back to the top of the first pitch, then rap from the bolts and chains to the ground. Alternatively, traverse right to the bolts above City Lights, to rappel without interfering with climbers below. The Uberfall Descent is also very quick from here.
Standard Rack, plus anything wide (4-5") you have! If you don't have 5-inch gear, be prepared to run it out up the offwidth, where a fall would be ill-advised. The offwidth used to have a chockstone that one could sling for protection - the guidebooks don't reflect the change in protection ratings.
BETA PHOTO: Jeremy leading the second Pitch of Baby, an outsta...
Anthony on Baby, placing his #5
In the off-width
Its all good from here...
The 2nd pitch corner
Following the 2nd pitch
looking down P2
|By Paul Crowder|
Mar 9, 2006
This is a classic Gunks sandbag. The offwidth is really challenging, and I'd rate this thing at 5.8 on any day. Hats off to the folks who put this thing up, 'way back when.
|By Adam Catalano|
From: Albany, New York
Mar 15, 2006
I agree that the first pitch can be tough through that wide-crack section. The 2nd pitch is always a fun way to finish the day.
|By Brian Adzima|
Oct 3, 2006
I think originally there was supposed to be a chockstone in the offwidth section. Now that it is long gone the route is a little more stout than 5.6. I believe I used a #11 hex at the crux.
Jul 10, 2007
I had a blast on this climb! I think the crux on the first pitch looks more daunting than it really is. Though some big pro would make this a bit easier. I dropped a knee in for a sweet, comfortable jam and got a piece in right above the crack to pull over it. Over the first and with a BIG belay ledge - The second pitch is a must as well and it will bring back some comfort to those who did not enjoy the crux on the first with a cozy corner and finger crack.
Jul 16, 2007
rating: 5.6 PG13
Really scratching my head on this one. I see some people gave Baby two stars while giving Maria 4 stars. I just don't understand it.
The first pitch of Maria is a throw away. The second pitch is a great corner, but so is the the second pitch of Baby. The third pitch of Marie is short but a way fun corner with a great, thoughtful, prototypical Gunks overhang to pull at the top. As good as the Maria overhang is. the overhang at the end of the second pitch of Baby is just dang good fun to pull over! I enjoy it as much if not more than the Maria overhang.
Finally, on Baby, with the first pitch, you have more variety of climbing than Maria offers. The first pitch is great. I just simply don't understand all the angst some people have with the dreaded "off-width"??? Crimpper's comment put it in perfect perspective. It is a fun move and one you don't often get to experience at the Gunks. After that you have some quality climbing up the twin cracks to the GT Ledge.
To offset the folks that rated Baby 2 stars and Maria 4 stars I going 4 stars here, even though I would be more comfortable rating both at three stars. Thus far in my Gunks climbing career, Madame G's is the 5.6 climb I'm holding above all others. Can I give it 5 stars? The bottom line is Baby and Maria are both terrific climbs well worth doing more than once.
Oct 11, 2007
Great climb. One of my favorites. Love the second pitch. The first is only hard if one never has done offwidth. Otherwise it is very easy 5.6 climbing.
|By Tim Schafstall|
From: Newark, DE
Apr 2, 2008
The famous rock in the P1 off width that you could use for pro and a handhold has been gone for a few years now, making the crux a tad harder and neckier w/o a big cam.
Please do not rap this route for descent. The ledge atop P1 is full of loose rock and there are always parties below. It's probably faster to use the downclimb at the Uberfall and it's definitely faster to use the downclimb at Radcliff.
|By Michael John Gray|
From: Queensbury, NY
Jul 23, 2008
I dont know about this route being sandbagged? I thought the whole thing was 5.6 all the way? Although I think there are a lot of sandbags in the Gunks. The O/W was not even the crux to me.
|By Don MacKenzie|
From: Somerville, MA
May 2, 2009
I led it in Oct '06 and the chockstone was still there in OW section at that time. That and a somewhat tipped out #4 Friend were adequate to protect the crux on that pitch.
|By Kalil Oldham|
From: NY, NY
Aug 23, 2009
Serious foot camming and little in-cut sidepulls in the OW made this 5.6 for me, otherwise ... harder.
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.6 PG13
Finding the correct layback and foot jamming makes it a 5.6+ (easier if you are tall). Bring a #5 camalot and stiff crack shoes (my Mythos desperately bent and slipped). My partner led P1 and off-widthed it, I led P2 - also a fun lead.
From: Wayne, PA
May 23, 2010
Using a #5 makes this climb "g" rated. Offwidth technique or layback, it's all about what's comfortable for you. Last year, I was all about jamming myself into the offwidth. This year, I am really enjoying the layback. This is just a very fun climb from bottom to top.
|By Robbie Flick|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 5, 2010
A great moderate. I have very little experience with crack climbing, let alone off-widths, so I found this part challenging. I laybacked on it, which felt a bit insecure, but worked out. A #5 is great, but a #4 can also be placed lower on the crack if you don't have any huge cams.
Nov 7, 2011
climbed this to practice placing my new big bros and found it more stimulating than anticipated. Can't claim to be a great offwidth climber so not sure about the rating, but I wouldn't have argued had it been rated 5.7 or 5.8. Found it spicier than Drunkards Delight - but that might say more about me and my faith in my big-bro usage than the climb.
Second pitch was comparatively easy, even with rope drag no more than 5.6. Perhaps 5.5.
|By Ryan Abernathey|
From: La Jolla, CA
Apr 6, 2012
The posts here exaggerate the difficulty of the OW, in my opinion. It is over before it begins. By the time you are standing on the chockstone, your hands are on jugs. It's really just one move to get into the big crack. I had a #5, but this is probably unnecessary if you sling the chockstone. Super fun climb!
|By Galen Rahmlow|
Apr 28, 2012
So good. It's a nice friendly off-width and gets you use to the concept. Second pitch is well worth doing. A black or purple c4 are useful at the top of the second pitch right at the final crux. Also I found that a #3 big-bro is too large to be any help in the off-width. By the time you have a gap large enough to fiddle with it, the crux is over.
|By Carl A|
From: brooklyn, ny
May 29, 2012
I've done a lot of offwidths out west, and although I'm not one of those guys that's into that kind of stuff, I'm pretty comfortable on them.
This offwidth was doable but tricky, especially for the grade, i was more using the face holds than any chicken wings and I couldn't really get all the way into it because the edges are offset.
Anywho I strung together these two pitches for 190 feet of great "5.6". I ran out the middle and placed a high piece above the ledge and the rope drag wasn't bad at all.
|By Logan Schiff|
From: NY, NY
Jul 16, 2012
Nice climb. I'm no offwidth specialist, but I still found the move to be pretty manageable, probably even a bit on the easy side for Gunks 5.6. A #4 cam worked well in the lower portion of the offwidth section (#5 would get you pro higher up). Second pitch was definitely worth doing.
From: Pittsford, New York
Aug 5, 2012
rating: 5.6 PG13
Great climb, but bring a big cam if you have one... felt pg13 on the OW. There IS a chockstone part way up, maybe there used to be another??
Biggest cam I had was a Camalot #3 and the exposure was very spicy. Soon as I got back from this picked up a #5...
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 27, 2013
I second the above comment about a #4 being pretty adequate with a #5 making this very well protected. Either way, just stuff yourself into the big-ass crack(you can get a single leg-jam rest before the crux if you're a fatass like me) and you won't fall. Squirm up to the jug. This climb is probably my favorite 5.6 in the Gunks. A very direct and striking line with an awesome off-width and an awesome corner on P2 that is as good or better than say... Maria's corner. The only downside is it's popularity and loose rock on the ledges so be careful!