Start by (stick?) clipping a bolt and lumbering past a somewhat silly low roof, or, perhaps more sensibly, by skipping the bolt and bypassing the roof to the right. Climb through easy blocks to reach a second, less silly roof. The fun begins here. Pass the roof and continue up flake system until it ends. The final holds, for most, are galvanized.
About 30 feet R of House of the 7th Bobcat, and about 10 feet L of Strange Boar
Light rack to 1", 2 QDs, sport anchor. The climb is well protected, but plan your cam placements well as you move through the less-silly roof that marks the start of the difficulties.
Eric Hirst getting established over the roof on Ba...
BETA PHOTO: View of the last half of Baby Tapir (5.11a), from ...
|By Jon Nelson|
Mar 26, 2012
The roof at the start is stiff. After that, it eases off but stays fun. The rating is for those of us who quickly grab the chains at the top after getting both hands on the last horizontal seam. To clip in without grabbing the chains would be a bit harder.
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
Fun moves, but over too soon.
|By Jacob Smith|
From: Mill Creek, WA
Apr 13, 2014
First roof w/ bolt is fun and powerful, no need for a stick clip if you are tall, second is much harder, gear is good but jams are inexplicably bad, final slab section forms a second crux.