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Baby Tapir 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Hirst, Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, 2/12/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 797
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Mar 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: View of the last half of Baby Tapir (5.11a), from ...


Start by (stick?) clipping a bolt and lumbering past a somewhat silly low roof, or, perhaps more sensibly, by skipping the bolt and bypassing the roof to the right. Climb through easy blocks to reach a second, less silly roof. The fun begins here. Pass the roof and continue up flake system until it ends. The final holds, for most, are galvanized.


About 30 feet R of House of the 7th Bobcat, and about 10 feet L of Strange Boar


Light rack to 1", 2 QDs, sport anchor. The climb is well protected, but plan your cam placements well as you move through the less-silly roof that marks the start of the difficulties.

Photos of Baby Tapir Slideshow Add Photo
Baby Tapir (leftmost finger crack through small ro...
BETA PHOTO: Baby Tapir (leftmost finger crack through small ro...
Eric Hirst getting established over the roof on Ba...
Eric Hirst getting established over the roof on Ba...
Baby Tapir
Baby Tapir

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By Jon Nelson
Mar 26, 2012

The roof at the start is stiff. After that, it eases off but stays fun. The rating is for those of us who quickly grab the chains at the top after getting both hands on the last horizontal seam. To clip in without grabbing the chains would be a bit harder.
By MorganH
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Fun moves, but over too soon.
By Jacob Smith
From: Mill Creek, WA
Apr 13, 2014

First roof w/ bolt is fun and powerful, no need for a stick clip if you are tall, second is much harder, gear is good but jams are inexplicably bad, final slab section forms a second crux.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 5, 2014

I would not say the first roof move is silly, fun undercling to flake ledge above. that crimpy finish was silly though, and so clean, one marvels at the spotless granite.
By wayne wallace
Sep 28, 2014

Loved the pitch! so fun, try to clip the chains, then touch above the anchor for style points!
By Aaron O
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 28, 2015

Gear is tricky on this one. I lead it about two weeks ago, and my buddy lead it yesterday. fell at the roof and popped two pieces. Be really sure of your gear before committing to the crux moves. Cool route though!
By Derek Soike
Jul 16, 2015

At the 2nd (main) roof, it's harder if you stay straight in the crack & easier if you use the arete out left.
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