Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lookout Point
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman 
A Ship Called Black Rock 
An Act of Strange Boar 
Baby Tapir 
Below Lissen 
Bobcat Cringe 
Bowling to Biscuits 
He is Truly a Great Airplane 
House of the 7th Bobcat 
Law and Order 
Peanuts To Serve You 
Purple Kool-Aid 
Rice Krispies 
Solitude 

Baby Tapir 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Hirst, Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, 2/12/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 408
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Mar 26, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Baby Tapir (leftmost finger crack through small ro...

Description 

Start by (stick?) clipping a bolt and lumbering past a somewhat silly low roof, or, perhaps more sensibly, by skipping the bolt and bypassing the roof to the right. Climb through easy blocks to reach a second, less silly roof. The fun begins here. Pass the roof and continue up flake system until it ends. The final holds, for most, are galvanized.


Location 

About 30 feet R of House of the 7th Bobcat, and about 10 feet L of Strange Boar


Protection 

Light rack to 1", 2 QDs, sport anchor. The climb is well protected, but plan your cam placements well as you move through the less-silly roof that marks the start of the difficulties.



Photos of Baby Tapir Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Hirst getting established over the roof on Baby Tapir (5.11a).
Eric Hirst getting established over the roof on Ba...
View of the last half of Baby Tapir (5.11a), from above the roof.
BETA PHOTO: View of the last half of Baby Tapir (5.11a), from ...
Comments on Baby Tapir Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Mar 26, 2012

The roof at the start is stiff. After that, it eases off but stays fun. The rating is for those of us who quickly grab the chains at the top after getting both hands on the last horizontal seam. To clip in without grabbing the chains would be a bit harder.

By MorganH
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

Fun moves, but over too soon.

By Jacob Smith
From: Mill Creek, WA
Apr 13, 2014

First roof w/ bolt is fun and powerful, no need for a stick clip if you are tall, second is much harder, gear is good but jams are inexplicably bad, final slab section forms a second crux.