Baby Huey 5.10a A2
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10a A2 [details] |
| FA: | Jason Repko, Andy Roberts |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | A. Roberts on Mar 8, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: The route goes up the crack system right of the su...
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Description Pitch 1: Climb up the crack through a small roof (5.10 C1) for about 90' to a nice ledge at the base of a semi-rotten pillar. P2: Start up the right facing corner behind and above the pillar C1 up for 50' when you can tension traverse to the right to a thin splitter, aid until the crack opens, then free climb up to a two bolt anchor (80'?). P3: This can be done as one long pitch or split up. Start up a 3-4" crack passing a wider pod and then the crack even seams out a couple of times. Head straight up passing a drilled angle and into the crack again. This is where the rock starts getting really soft. Get a piece in as high as you can and traverse 15' left to a right facing dihedral. Follow this up for another 30' to the top. At one point near the top I drilled a pecker hole to pass some really rotten rock, but I've been told this loose rock has been trundled. 2 bolt anchor(130'). Be sure to hike up to the true summit for the spectacular view in all directions!
Location Located further up the Moab Rim trail and around the corner from Super Chimney on the left side of a tombstone shaped rock. It's a free standing summit and has an unbelievable panoramic view of Potash, Arches, Moab, and behind the rocks. The descent follows 2 double rope rappels from bolt anchors. The route is North facing and would be a good summer route.
Protection Triples on the cams. You may want a couple of pins for the last pitch, KB, 1/2" Angle, and a Pecker.
Jason Repko starting up the 1st pitch.
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2nd pitch
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About to top out.
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Old Moab Postcard with a great shot of Baby Huey o...
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By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 8, 2008
| This route was climbed in Feb of 99' which was a cold time to be on this wall. We left a registry on top with a coupon for a free large pizza from Pasta Jay's (which I was managing at the time). One Saturday night later that year, these two dirty climbers from Durango poked their heads into the kitchen to cash in on the free pizza. |
By Jason Repko
Nov 21, 2009
| Your reward at the top is one of the most phenomenal views of Moab! If I remember correctly, there were lots of goodies in the can - can't wait to climb it again someday.
~jason repko |
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