Baby With A Nail Gun
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 193 votes
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Shaine Smith, Dawn Abel 1995 |
Page Views: | 5,114 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Jeffrey Arthur on Jul 6, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Description
One of the best routes on this wall, but unless you are 6 ft you may find this route too reachy.
Locate the big sloper hold 8 feet off the deck with no holds except a good foot. You'll need some long arms to reach the start of this route. Walk into the wall with your hands up and latch on to that hold. The remainder of the route remains reachy in a few other spots especially around the 1st and 2nd bolts.
Staying direct is the best way to do this route, but by the looks of the chalk lines skirting out right around the 6 & 7th bolts avoids the small holds crux around the steeper sections of the rock. Moving out right is an option, but this way puts you too far right and a little runout so suck it up and go straight up for the real challenge, or put yourself in danger of a pendulum fall and getting hurt.
4 Comments