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SDS under the roof as far back as you can go and match hands where the horizontal roof crack widens to a sidepull/undercling. Follow crack out of roof and match on nice hold at lip; heel hook and reach up for sloping lip. Follow sloping lip up and to the right. Mantle up to large hold and top out. Super fun moves and awesome problem!! Named after Squamish's Crackhead due to similarity but smaller and tougher.
In west forest parking lot walk about 20 meters and then straight up. On the same boulder as Levitation but on the southeast face.
Couple of pads and a spotter.
BETA PHOTO: Closeup of the face of Baby Crackhead. Come out o...
Hitting the last hold to come out of the roof.
JWT toe hooking to come out of the ro...
Gabe exiting the cave on Baby Crackhead
BETA PHOTO: Gabe with the heel/toe hook on Baby Crackhead.
|Comments on Baby Crackhead
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 8, 2006
A classic problem with loads of core tension and gymnastic movement. A very unique, aesthetic problem.
Jan 29, 2007
rating: V5 6c
GREAT problem. Gave it 3 stars instead of 4 only because of the need to avoid scraping your ass on the ground. Like Bachar Cracker in Yosemite, but a bit harder.