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Baby Crackhead 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: gc
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,633
Submitted By: gabriel cisneros on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: SDS in cave on horizontal roof crack for Baby Crac...
No vehicle access, but open to foot traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

SDS under the roof as far back as you can go and match hands where the horizontal roof crack widens to a sidepull/undercling. Follow crack out of roof and match on nice hold at lip; heel hook and reach up for sloping lip. Follow sloping lip up and to the right. Mantle up to large hold and top out. Super fun moves and awesome problem!! Named after Squamish's Crackhead due to similarity but smaller and tougher.


Location 

In west forest parking lot walk about 20 meters and then straight up. On the same boulder as Levitation but on the southeast face.


Protection 

Couple of pads and a spotter.



Photos of Baby Crackhead Slideshow Add Photo
Gabe exiting the cave on Baby Crackhead
Gabe exiting the cave on Baby Crackhead
Closeup of the face of Baby Crackhead.  Come out of the cave and climb this face.
BETA PHOTO: Closeup of the face of Baby Crackhead. Come out o...
<a href='/u/jwt//105806543'>JWT</a> toe hooking to come out of the roof.
JWT toe hooking to come out of the ro...
Hitting the last hold to come out of the roof.
Hitting the last hold to come out of the roof.
Gabe with the heel/toe hook on Baby Crackhead.
BETA PHOTO: Gabe with the heel/toe hook on Baby Crackhead.
Comments on Baby Crackhead Add Comment
Show which comments
By JWT
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 8, 2006

A classic problem with loads of core tension and gymnastic movement. A very unique, aesthetic problem.

By jonah
Jan 29, 2007
rating: V5 6C

GREAT problem. Gave it 3 stars instead of 4 only because of the need to avoid scraping your ass on the ground. Like Bachar Cracker in Yosemite, but a bit harder.