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Baby angles

Original Post
KEN tucky · · Pewee Valley · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 60

When your carrying pens in the alpine, baby angles in this case- Do you cut down BD 1 & 2's or buy the CAMP sm,med, large "baby angles"? In the case of the BD angles, how much can you chop and still have a reliable angle?

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746

I don't think most folks "cut down" their pins for alpine climbing. You chop a pin short to fit a shallow hole on an established aid route. For alpine climbing, you'd want the pin whole to fit deep, wild cracks. Plus, you could always tie them off if need be.

Yarp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0
ilclimberken wrote:...how much can you chop and still have a reliable angle?
All the way to the eye...then you call them mountain RURPS
KEN tucky · · Pewee Valley · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 60

nice..

Keith Guillory · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,005

What Brian in SLC said.

I find Short SMC shallow angles and Short BD Lost Arrows useful on the alpine rack. Shortened angles, not so much. If for an aid rack, perhaps the shortened angles might be worth the weight. I ask myself, "Would I rap or clip as pro this piece?" and find the cut-off baby angle wanting there.

Yarp continues to amuse if not help.

Keith

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Mountaineering
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