Babble On 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | 1978 Jim Beyer, Mike Sawyer, and Bob Sullivan |
| Submitted By: | Ed Hartouni on Jul 8, 2007 |
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Lieing back the start to Babble On.
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A left facing corner with a huge crack in it to a roof, to another left facing corner. The business is the crack and the roof. Lieback or whatever to the roof, then make the nice moves out to your left. The corner above goes down pretty mellow.
Location left of the Desperate Straights corner.
Protection Take large-ish pieces, generally good protection but be thoughtful about rope drag. Take some tied slings to redo the anchor (around a tree).
By matt j hartman
From: lander, wy
Aug 20, 2007
| that tree is pretty hollow looking. you can use bolts from the climb to the right to belay. the roof is really fun |
By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 6, 2009
| The anchor is scary. I rapped off it and prayed all the way down. I doubt it could handle my weight after a big meal. |
By Sheets
From: Livermore, CA
Apr 6, 2009
| Tree anchor is lousy and dangerous. But fun climb. |
By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| agreed. the tree (read, small bush) anchor is lousy. i don't care how many slings you put around it, it doesn't make it any better... |
By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2010
| This climb is way right of Desperate Straights. Its actually just to the right of the Tube. |
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 7, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| Where do you cut right to get to the Boneheads bolt anchors? I could never find a traverse that looked easier than 5.10a (Then again I suck at face climbing :-) )so I trusted the tree - this time. Slings are all stiff and crunchy. I was really tempted to leave a sling but I gave a good bounce test and it seemed OK for the time being. |
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