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 ADVANCED
Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babble On T 
Boneheads T 
Chicken Fever T 
Desperate Straights T 
G-Man  T,S 
G-Man Extension (AKA Book'em, Dano) T,S 
Gilligan's Chicken T 
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 
Knob Job T 
Knuckleheads S 
Makayla's Climb T 
Nine Lives T,S 
Nurdle T 
Pat Pinnacle T 
Polymastia T,S 
Sherrie's Crack T 
Skinheads S 
Suds T 
Super Slacker Highway, The T 
Trough of Justice T 
Tube, The T 
Underclingon S 
Unknown (5.8?) S 

Babble On 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1978 Jim Beyer, Mike Sawyer, and Bob Sullivan
Page Views: 1,180
Submitted By: Ed Hartouni on Jul 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Lieing back the start to Babble On.

Description 

A left facing corner with a huge crack in it to a roof, to another left facing corner. The business is the crack and the roof. Lieback or whatever to the roof, then make the nice moves out to your left. The corner above goes down pretty mellow.


Location 

left of the Desperate Straights corner.


Protection 

Take large-ish pieces, generally good protection but be thoughtful about rope drag. Take some tied slings to redo the anchor (around a tree).



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By matt j hartman
From: lander, wy
Aug 20, 2007

that tree is pretty hollow looking. you can use bolts from the climb to the right to belay. the roof is really fun

By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 6, 2009

The anchor is scary. I rapped off it and prayed all the way down. I doubt it could handle my weight after a big meal.

By Sheets
From: Livermore, CA
Apr 6, 2009

Tree anchor is lousy and dangerous. But fun climb.

By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

agreed. the tree (read, small bush) anchor is lousy. i don't care how many slings you put around it, it doesn't make it any better...

By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2010

This climb is way right of Desperate Straights. Its actually just to the right of the Tube.

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 7, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Where do you cut right to get to the Boneheads bolt anchors? I could never find a traverse that looked easier than 5.10a (Then again I suck at face climbing :-) )so I trusted the tree - this time. Slings are all stiff and crunchy. I was really tempted to leave a sling but I gave a good bounce test and it seemed OK for the time being.