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Nautilus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side 
Automotive Supply House 
Baalbek 
Baldwin's Chimney 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) 
Bat Heaven 
Bombs Away aka B52 
Bug Squad 
Candlestick 
Cannonball 
Captain Nemo 
Central Scrutinizer, The 
Cool Hand Luke 
Cornelius 
Crankenstein 
Cupcake 
Deception 
Deep Throat 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers 
Dual 
Easy Jam 
Ejector-Rejector 
Elevator 
Escalator 
Etude For The Left Hand 
Etude For The Right Hand 
Failure to Communicate 
Father 1 
Final Cut, The 
Finally 
Flare Thee Well 
Flying Buttress 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated 
Friday the 13th 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 
Ghost Dance 
Grand Traverse, The 
Gravity's Rainbow 
H & H Grunt 
Hairlip 
Hamburger Crack 
Handjacker 
Harder Than Your Husband 
Hemoglobin 
Hesitation Blues 
Horticulture 
Humper 
In The Dark 
In the Groove 
Jim Jam 
Joke 
Knee Grinder 
Knothole 
Left Torpedo Tube 
Lower Progressive 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot 
Lower Slot Left 
Lucky You 
Max Factor 
MaxiLash 
Middle Parallel Space 
Mother 1 
Nemo's Nemesis 
Nemo's Toad 
Nitrogen Narcosis 
Octagon 
October Light 
Old Eyeful 
Outrider 
Par Four 
Petite Tarsalation 
Piton Perch 
Popcorn Farce 
Postman, The 
Pretty 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space 
Right Torpedo Tube 
Right Winger 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer 
Slat 
Slick and Superficial 
Slit 
Slut 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver 
Stinkzig 
Straight 4 Ward 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation 
Ted's Trot 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy 
Thunderbolt 
TTL 
TTR 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive 
Upper Slot Left 
Vault 
Vedajuicer, The 
Vulture Direct 
Wall-To-Wall 
War Zone 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy 
Unsorted Routes:

Baalbek 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,775
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Aug 30, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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About to sling the surprisingly solid chockstone.

Description 

Balbaak means, "better than it looks" in an obscure dialect of ancient Vedauwoo-ese. Many climbers come sniffing around these parts of the Nautilus in search of the first pitch of Captain Nemo (an excellent 5.8 pitch), and walk underneath this classic muttering droll comments about nightmarish wide cracks. Nonsense! This is a worthwhile little gem with varied climbing and a nice finish.

Located right of Bug Squad, Baalbek begins in a chimney sort of an affair with a wedged chockstone. Calmly stem and chimney up to the block, then awkwardly surmount it, and resume chimney detail. A few strenuous moves above lead into a nice finger/hand crack, and eventually a set of new anchor chains. Catch a toprope on Bug Squad (use a lower set of chains on climber's left as a directional, which incidentally will commit you to completing the TR).

Good climbing, nice shade until early afternoon, and reasonable protection.


Protection 

Wireds, TCUs to a 3" cam (I don't think you need anything bigger). From time to time a sling appears around the wedged block.



Photos of Baalbek Slideshow Add Photo
Leading Baalbek, anyone else notice in the old Heal and Toe book that there are two chockstones instead of the mono-chock there today, hmmmmmm
Leading Baalbek, anyone else notice in the old Hea...
Jon does a sort of dyno and grips the chock for all it's worth
Jon does a sort of dyno and grips the chock for al...
Moving up into the upper corner crack.
Moving up into the upper corner crack.
Comments on Baalbek Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Aug 30, 2001

Darn it Steve, I was going to submit this route today, but I've actually been working. I did this climb almost 3 years ago (Labor Day Weekend '98), so my recollection may be fuzzy. I remember some bomber stoppers on this baby - at the start of the stemming section (4 or 5 Wallnut) and at the cruxy finishing section (a big fat stopper). I think I used a blue tricam as a stopper between the main crack and the chock stone. This climb is better than it looks and I agree with the 2 star rating and if the bottom was a bit better, it would get 3. Moving past the chock stone is great.

By nolteboy
Jun 24, 2005

Well worth doing despite appearances to the contrary.

By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Block is "solid" but looks as if it might fall out any minute. Fun climb.