BaaaD To The Bone 5.9+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Noi Kosila, Richard Wright, 2002 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Richard M. Wright on Aug 23, 2002 |
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JoJO and Noi starting up BTTB.
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Description BaaaD To The Bone picks a largely bullet-proof way through the middle sector of Goat Rock. Goat Rock is actually composed of three 100-hundred foot tiers separated by broad terraces. BTTB starts on the first of these terraces. Hike left around the main base crag and pick a careful path to a knarled old pine. A double bolt belay awaits at the base of the route, 20 ft right of the pine. Wander up 100 ft on great stone. The minor friable edges have been cleaning up nicely, and what remains is crisp, sharp, and solid. Some things just make you feel glad to be alive, this was one of them. FFA went to Noi's onsight.
Protection Ten draws and a 60 meter rope. Since this pitch runs up on less than vertical stone, passing some ledges near the top, we would suggest bringing up a second rather than top roping, which generates significant rope drag. A 60 meter rope will rap comfortably to the belay.
Noi in the thin start.
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Noi launching the slab.
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| Comments on BaaaD To The Bone |
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By Joshua Lewis
Sep 3, 2002
| A good hold broke off right above the first bolt on Sunday. I don't think this is 9+ anymore....probably more like 10+ getting to the 2nd bolt. Still fun, though. Incidentally, there is a route just to the right of this one that was also good, on cleaner rock...felt about 5.8ish. |
By AOSR
From: Denver
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.10c/d
| The beginning of this, do apparently to the now missing hold, is pretty difficult. It felt upper 10ish to me to get to the 2nd clip. After that it's easy sailing. |
By Lee Smith
Jul 9, 2009
| The only time I felt "glad to be alive" was when I got to the top of this and I wasn't dead yet. The start is plenty stout (harder than .9) and the route is plenty chossy. There is a ledge about 1/2 way up that is difficult to get by only because of the garbage on it that would fall down on your belayer. |
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 14, 2011
rating: 5.10b
| The start was way hard for 9+, and from the comments I now know why. You could easily come off and hit the slab. The first clip was spooky, since you have to lean out from the top of the slab a bit with not much for your hands. There are one or two other interesting moves in the 8 or 9 range, but the climbing is inconsistent, especially with the new hard start. |
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