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 ADVANCED
Penitente - Inner Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Maniacs S 
7/11 S 
A Virgin No More S 
Air Jordan S 
Anatomy 101 S 
Animosity S 
Apes in Estrus S 
B1 or V5 S 
Bad Rap S 
Banana Slugs in Heat S 
Black Jesus S 
Black Sheets of Rain S 
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 
Brown Sugar S 
Bullet the Blue Sky S 
Candy Apple Grey S 
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 
Colville Express S 
Concupiscent Curds S 
Dazed and Confuzed S 
Dog's Delight S 
El Dedo Es la Llave S 
Forever Young S 
Freddy's Nightmare S 
Friday the 13th S 
Handle with Care T,S 
Harvey's Wallbanger T 
Head Over Heals S 
Heaven Can Wait T 
Hip Hop S 
How The West Was Won S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 
Innocent Mission S 
Intimidator S 
Jabba the Hut S 
Jack and Diane S 
Jewel Of The Mild S 
Josie's  S 
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 
Morada S 
Ms. Cool S 
No Intent S 
No Sweat, No Vapor S 
Not My Cross To Bear S 
Nueve a Seis S 
Omnipenitent S 
Ordinary People S 
Passion Play S 
Pumping Huecos S 
Ranck E S 
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 
Santa Cruz T 
Schizoid Way S 
Shady Lady S 
Shear Strength S 
Sheer Lunacy S 
Sister of Mercy S 
Soul Boy S 
Tanks for the Hueco S 
Tao of Gymnastic S 
True Penitence T 
Unbound S 
Unknown S 
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 
Unknown 5.10a S 
Unknown 5.10d S 
Unrepenitente S 
Vapor Trails S 
Unsorted Routes:

B1 or V5 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, '92
Page Views: 605
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Neither. I say V6, or 12d. Perhaps it's my height, but I though this was stout. It's definitely not destined for popularity, and I wouldn't be surprised if I just now got the second ascent after 15 years. The holds are painful and the moves are hard. Few will be called to climb this route.

On a positive note, the upper slab is very nice...probably the best I've done in the canyon, with engaging moves on great rock.

Location 

This is past Jabba and starts behind a big flat boulder that is nice for sun-bathing.

Protection 

Bolts, #0.5, #1 Camalot.


Comments on B1 or V5 Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris schulte
Oct 12, 2010

I had a similar experience, it felt like a pretty big adventure. I wasn't sure what it was, but had looked at it for years. One day got on, sans cam- bouldery!! A bit run out, too, even with the cam, I think. The anchors are a little shaky, too!
Not your average Penitente sport climb....
By John Maurer
Jan 5, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

No way this is 12d . . . or even 12b. I almost onsighted this route and my foot popping early felt like a fluke. I got the route 2nd try after a 10 second wait. The opening bit is intense, for sure. I'd go with 11d or maybe 12a if you have the reach.

Sounds like the big difference here is reach as I am tall. I was shocked to see the grade on this - and resolved that it was closer to light B1. Like many Penitente routes, the less popular ones can be a lot of fun. Curious what others think.
By John Maurer
Jul 23, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Please take the previous comment not as a sandbag effort on my part - I don't (nor have I ever) climbed at the 12d level. I have bouldered at the V5 level (and 1 V6) - but this was not reminiscent of those efforts.