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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

B1 or V5 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, '92
Page Views: 565
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Neither. I say V6, or 12d. Perhaps it's my height, but I though this was stout. It's definitely not destined for popularity, and I wouldn't be surprised if I just now got the second ascent after 15 years. The holds are painful and the moves are hard. Few will be called to climb this route.

On a positive note, the upper slab is very nice...probably the best I've done in the canyon, with engaging moves on great rock.


This is past Jabba and starts behind a big flat boulder that is nice for sun-bathing.


Bolts, #0.5, #1 Camalot.

Comments on B1 or V5 Add Comment
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By chris schulte
Oct 12, 2010

I had a similar experience, it felt like a pretty big adventure. I wasn't sure what it was, but had looked at it for years. One day got on, sans cam- bouldery!! A bit run out, too, even with the cam, I think. The anchors are a little shaky, too!
Not your average Penitente sport climb....

By John Maurer
Jan 5, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

No way this is 12d . . . or even 12b. I almost onsighted this route and my foot popping early felt like a fluke. I got the route 2nd try after a 10 second wait. The opening bit is intense, for sure. I'd go with 11d or maybe 12a if you have the reach.

Sounds like the big difference here is reach as I am tall. I was shocked to see the grade on this - and resolved that it was closer to light B1. Like many Penitente routes, the less popular ones can be a lot of fun. Curious what others think.

By John Maurer
Jul 23, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Please take the previous comment not as a sandbag effort on my part - I don't (nor have I ever) climbed at the 12d level. I have bouldered at the V5 level (and 1 V6) - but this was not reminiscent of those efforts.