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Upper Tier Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 6,805 ft |
| GPS: |
39.74415, -105.2425 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 64,018 total · 579/month |
| Shared By: | Josh on Mar 26, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a playground for the 5.8/5.9 leader.
The Upper Tier is a series of slabs that roughly divide into four triangular faces, plus one more beneath. They are numbered from left to right. The routes here are generally clean and of good quality.
Jericho is an additional short slab across the talus gully from the rest of the Upper Tier. There is also a tiny toprope immediately next to the approach trail on your way up.
The Upper Tier in general is a bit less friendly to large parties hanging out at the base than the Lower Tier, as there are fewer trees, more scree, and less level ground, but there is still comfortable space below Three Little Bats, the main rappel gully, and Undisclosed Location, and some parties of 6 have been able to enjoy the area safely enough. The further to the right one goes, the higher up a ramp/ledge one must scramble, with the Front Triangle below you. The exposure is significant even if the terrain is not hard, so be careful when accessing the bottom of the Third Triangle.
Beware of broken glass around the top and on ledges. The area above the Upper Tier is a notorious party hangout. Climbers who bring trash bags and clean up after the irresponsible partiers get extra points....
B. Upper Tier (Left to Right):
On the way to the Upper Tier
- So Happy Inside, All of the Time, 5.9+, 1p, 25', TR (bolt anchor).
A. First Triangle
- For Whom the Cap Fits, 9, 1p, 65', bolts.
- I Don't Wanna Wait in Vain, 9-, 1p, 45', bolts.
- Three Little Bats, 5.9+, 1p, 100', bolts.
- King of Zion, 5.11a, 1p 100', bolts.
B. Second Triangle
- A Pretty Gneiss Route, 8, 1p, TR.
- Undisclosed Location, 5.9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
- Three Little Roofs, 5.8, 1p, 65', bolts.
- If Your Well Run Dry, 5.8-, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Third Triangle
- Bloody Lady Di, 8 PG-13, 1p, 75', gear.
- The Joy of My World (is in Zion), 5.9+, 1p, 75', bolts.
- Allrete, 5.8, 2-3p, 280'. gear, one bolt.
D. Fourth Triangle
- Takin' it Easy, Takin' it Slow, 5.6 or 5.7+, 1p, 65', bolts.
- Best Hamster Ever, 5.4, 1-2p, 220', gear.
- Poofie, 4th Cl, 1p, 65', solo.
E. Front Triangle
- Reggaeton, 5.9, 1p, 50', bolts.
- Kinky Reggae, 5.9, 1p, 50', bolts.
- Get Up, Stand Up, 5.8, 1p, 60', bolts.
Getting There
Start from the regular parking and main trail access for the Lower Tier. The trail to the Upper Tier breaks off uphill about halfway across the slope. There is a sign at the trail junction.
In 2019, the final 40 feet or so to the base of the rock is still a bit loose, but it is scheduled to be cleaned up and stabilized ASAP. HUGE thank you to JeffCo Open Space and Front Range Climbing Stewards / Boulder Climbing Community for building the rock steps through the steepest stretch just below.
If you are at the Lower Tier, it is best to walk back on the main trail to the junction, rather than scramble directly to the base of the Upper Tier. That terrain is steep and loose and threatens the main trail with rockfall. It is not safe at all to approach the Fourth Triangle from below.
Approaching from Above:
Until JeffCo formally closes the hiker-created trail from the Windy Saddle parking lot to the summit of Mt. Zion, it is still possible to use this trail to access the top of the Upper Tier. From the lot, follow the obvious trail to the summit and continue past one more high point to the next high point. This is right above the top of the Third Triangle. Look for a sandy area slightly downhill, with a black graffiti of a mushroom on the rock. That rock is the top of the Third Triangle, and the main rappel anchors are just to the right (east) on a grassy ledge. Descend slightly and sneak around onto the ledge, or descend slightly to the left (west) to reach around to the anchor on top of Allrete and Joy of My World, or traverse further left to reach the top of the Fourth Triangle. Beware that the talus gully in between the First Triangle and Jericho is steep and loose and threatens the trail from below.
Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Tier
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