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b. Jackie and friends

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Top Rope TR 
A-Gape T 
Ape and Essence T,TR 
Ape Call T 
Badcliff T 
Belly Roll T 
Betty T 
Blackout, The T 
Classic T 
Classy T 
Daydream T 
Dennis T 
Disco Death March T 
Habanero Balls T,TR 
Into Thin Hair T,TR 
Jackie T 
Jane T 
Jasmine T 
Matinee T 
Miss Bailey T 
P38 T 
Pebbles TR 
Pink Laurel T 
Raubenheimer Special T 
Roddy T 
Slightly Roddey T,TR 
Stirrup Trouble T 
Unsorted Routes:

b. Jackie and friends Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.73755, -74.18693 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 105,940
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 13, 2011


44° | 29°

47° | 43°

50° | 35°

45° | 31°

45° | 30°
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Scott Perkins captures a great shot of me on Matin...

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

Along the Cliff 

last area: The Uberfall | next area: Frog's Head and The Arch


Major Features This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty) to the classic 5.10s of P38, Stirrup Trouble and Matinee, and beyond.

The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby.

Approach : The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby.

Descents : The Uberfall Descent finishes in a dead heat with rapping from the clifftop - you can walk off and be back at your packs just as quickly as rapping. On busy weekend days, the Uberfall Descent is preferable - especially for the Betty and Jackie areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.

There is a set of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie and Classic.

All routes, left-to-right 

Cilley Dicken': 5.12-, PG
Stirrup Trouble: 5.10, PG
The Mohel: 5.12-, TR
P38: 5.10, G
Radcliff: 4, G
Badcliff: 5.10-, PG
Dennis: 5.5, G
Belly Roll: 5.4, PG
Roddy: 5.2, PG
Slightly Roddey: 5.10-
Daydream: 5.8, PG
Jackie: 5.5, G (**)
Classic: 5.7, PG (**)
Classy: 5.8 (**)
Pink Laurel: 5.9, G (**)
A-Gape: 5.11-, PG
Ape Call: 5.8, PG-R
Ape and Essence: 5.9+, PG
Jane: 5.8, PG-R
RMC: 5.5-, G
Raubenheimer Special: 5.7-, PG
Betty: 5.3-, G
The Blackout: 5.8, R
Late Show: 5.12-, PG-R
Into Thin Hair: 5.11, X
Matinee: 5.10+, G
Creature Features: 5.11, PG
Big Chimney: 5.5, PG
Miss Bailey: 5.6, PG

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.8 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in b. Jackie and friends

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for b. Jackie and friends:
Betty   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Belly Roll   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Dennis   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Jackie   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
RMC   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   
Miss Bailey   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   
Raubenheimer Special   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Classic   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Jane   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Classy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Ape Call   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   
Jasmine   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   
The Blackout   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   
Pink Laurel   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Slightly Roddey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Stirrup Trouble   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
P38   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Matinee   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Disco Death March   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Into Thin Hair   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in b. Jackie and friends

Featured Route For b. Jackie and friends
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug leading Miss Bailey.  It's 20 degrees cooler ...

Miss Bailey 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13  NY : The Gunks : ... : b. Jackie and friends
1. Climb the chimney to the top (no pro), hang around the corner (pro), then make awkward moves onto the belay ledge.2. Chimney a few moves, then stay left on the face following a fracture, using the back wall for stemming as well. The route Big Chimney stays in the chimney to the right. Belay at a ledge below a hand crack. From here, an easy traverse right would let you bail over to the Baby/Easy O bolts.3. Climb the hand crack to the overhang. Traverse right and into the next right-facing co...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of b. Jackie and friends Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In the final alcove on P1 of Pink Laurel
In the final alcove on P1 of Pink Laurel
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Morgan at the Ape Call roof.
Dave Morgan at the Ape Call roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic (right) and Jackie (left).
BETA PHOTO: Classic (right) and Jackie (left).
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Betty
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Betty

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