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Along the Cliff
This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty
) to the classic 5.10s of P38
, Stirrup Trouble
, and beyond.
The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey
. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby
: The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby
: The Uberfall Descent
finishes in a dead heat with rapping from the clifftop - you can walk off and be back at your packs just as quickly as rapping. On busy weekend days, the Uberfall Descent
is preferable - especially for the Betty
areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.
There is a set of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie
All routes, left-to-right
Cilley Dicken': 5.12-, PG Stirrup Trouble
: 5.10, PG
The Mohel: 5.12-, TR P38
: 5.10, G
Radcliff: 4, G
Badcliff: 5.10-, PG Dennis
: 5.5, G Belly Roll
: 5.4, PG Roddy
: 5.2, PG Slightly Roddey
Daydream: 5.8, PG Jackie
: 5.5, G (**) Classic
: 5.7, PG (**) Classy
: 5.8 (**) Pink Laurel
: 5.9, G (**)
A-Gape: 5.11-, PG Ape Call
: 5.8, PG-R Ape and Essence
: 5.9+, PG Jane
: 5.8, PG-R RMC
: 5.5-, G Raubenheimer Special
: 5.7-, PG Betty
: 5.3-, G The Blackout
: 5.8, R
Late Show: 5.12-, PG-R Into Thin Hair
: 5.11, X Matinee
: 5.10+, G
Creature Features: 5.11, PG
Big Chimney: 5.5, PG Miss Bailey
: 5.6, PG
Weather station 2.8 miles from here
28 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in b. Jackie and friends
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for b. Jackie and friends:
Betty 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Belly Roll 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Dennis 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Jackie 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
RMC 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Miss Bailey 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Classic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Jane 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Ape Call 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Classy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Jasmine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches
P38 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Matinee 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Featured Route For b. Jackie and friends
Stirrup Trouble 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
: The Gunks
: ... : b. Jackie and friends
Perhaps a double entendre in the name? I am not sure. A good route with poor gear in places, it is unique. I found this to be a rough introduction to the Gunks.The route starts 15' left of P38, a more-popular climb with better protection. P1: Climb up off of a boulder on unprotected moves (5.10-) to gain a crack, which is climbed to a horizontal. Follow the horizontal left for a few body lengths to a rift in the small overhang and climb up to some roofs above. Wander left through some ...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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