Scott Perkins captures a great shot of me on Matin...
Along the Cliff
This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty
) to the classic 5.10s of P38
, Stirrup Trouble
, and beyond.
The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey
. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby
(picture of trailheads to follow in spring ...
) The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby
The Uberfall Descent
finishes in a dead heat with rapping from the clifftop - you can walk off and be back at your packs just as quickly as rapping. On busy weekend days, the Uberfall Descent
is preferable - especially for the Betty
areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.
There is a set of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie
All routes, left-to-right
Cilley Dicken': 5.12-, PG Stirrup Trouble
: 5.10, PG
The Mohel: 5.12-, TR P38
: 5.10, G
Radcliff: 4, G
Badcliff: 5.10-, PG Dennis
: 5.5, G Belly Roll
: 5.4, PG Roddy
: 5.2, PG Slightly Roddey
Daydream: 5.8, PG Jackie
: 5.5, G (**) Classic
: 5.7, PG (**) Classy
: 5.8 (**) Pink Laurel
: 5.9, G (**)
A-Gape: 5.11-, PG Ape Call
: 5.8, PG-R Ape and Essence
: 5.9+, PG Jane
: 5.8, PG-R RMC
: 5.5-, G Raubenheimer Special
: 5.7-, PG Betty
: 5.3-, G The Blackout
: 5.8, R
Late Show: 5.12-, PG-R Into Thin Hair
: 5.11, X Matinee
: 5.10+, G
Creature Features: 5.11, PG
Big Chimney: 5.5, PG Miss Bailey
: 5.6, PG
Weather station 2.8 miles from here
28 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in b. Jackie and friends
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for b. Jackie and friends:
Betty 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Belly Roll 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Dennis 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Jackie 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
RMC 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Miss Bailey 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Classic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Jane 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Classy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Ape Call 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Jasmine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches
P38 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Matinee 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Featured Route For b. Jackie and friends
Miss Bailey 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
: The Gunks
: ... : b. Jackie and friends
1. Climb the chimney to the top (no pro), hang around the corner (pro), then make awkward moves onto the belay ledge.2. Chimney a few moves, then stay left on the face following a fracture, using the back wall for stemming as well. The route Big Chimney stays in the chimney to the right. Belay at a ledge below a hand crack. From here, an easy traverse right would let you bail over to the Baby/Easy O bolts.3. Climb the hand crack to the overhang. Traverse right and into the next right-facing co...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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