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The North West Territories
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Angry Itch, The S 
Approaching Armageddon  T 
B-B-Bubbas link-up S 
B-b-buttress S 
Beastie, The S 
Beerless Leader T 
California Chrome S 
Hard Times S 
Hocus Focus S 
Like Old Times S 
Paper Wafer T 
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Scrubbing Bubbas S 
Shine On S 

B-b-buttress 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: jim shimberg
Page Views: 1,867
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 23, 2008  with updates from Jeffrey LeCours

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Me climbing the fun low angle moves... great stuff...

Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A diamond in the rough... Most routes at the NW Territories cant hold a candle to this awesome 100 ft long low angle dance capped with a super fun corner.

This climb was retro-bolted and it seems like a good thing to me.
It saw no use as a trad climb and now it sees some use as a sport climb. There was even a little chalk on it the other day when i did it.

Start by clipping a bolt from a low ledge and pulling a boulder problem over a block to get on to the main buttress. The boulder problem is the hardest your muscles will work the whole time you are on the route but be prepared for your brain to get pumped as you think your way through the route finding above. Dance your way up the low angle face climbing for 70 feet or so to a stance below a corner. Stem the corner to a tricky but easy step left and clip the anchors with a little effort (you might wish they were a foot lower).

60m ROPE NEEDED TO LOWER OFF!!!

Location 

As you hike up from the boulder field this route will be right in front of you as the trail meets the cliff and it just begs to be climbed.

Protection 

12 bolts to quick clips...

You must have a 60m rope to lower off!!!


Photos of B-b-buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Bruce pulling onto the slab.
Bruce pulling onto the slab.
looks like a clean line huh... well, climb it...
looks like a clean line huh... well, climb it...
here dave is at bolt 3 of 12... its fun the whole ...
here dave is at bolt 3 of 12... its fun the whole ...
Bruce just past the bouldery start.
Bruce just past the bouldery start.
Such good movement.
Such good movement.

Comments on B-b-buttress Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 7, 2014
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Dec 5, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very enjoyable. Great climbing.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 6, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think the FA of the bolted route of this was Jim Shimberg
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 6, 2009

yup he bolted it... i just fixed it... thanks
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route is so fun, it absolutely gets four stars! Anyone else say its the best 5.9 in Rumney?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

definitely worth while, but I wouldn't go so far as that. It must have cleaned up a bunch since I did it if you guys are that into it. I remember it being a fun adventure, but having a fair amount of low angle dirty climbing and loose holds. ..nice if it has cleaned up. edit - Changed my mind after reclimbing it! It is excellent.
By S. Neoh
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Off topic here but has been a subject friends and I have brought up several times in the past - the best 5.9 at Rumney. Dolt(.9 or .10a?)? 2-pitch Rock Du Jours Direct? Yoda or Obiwan? Space? War and Peace? Trigger Happy? Loads of good 10a but 5.9 is a 'tough' grade for Rumney, IMHO.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 13, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

What about The Green Mile? (joking. Somebody gave that 4 stars). I think I would have to go for Rock du Jours, mostly for the positioning. Others that I would put on the list of best 9s are Smokestack (aka Coldshoulder), Giant's Chimney (for complete wildness), Slick, Space Shuttle. Black Slabbath is also pretty good, along with Yoda. I can't think of any 9s at Rumney that deserve 4 stars, but there are a bunch of 2 and a number of arguably 3 stars.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I haven't been on all those that are listed so I guess I might not be able to make that statement yet. However, I will say it is the best .9 I have been on so far, in my opinion better than Yoda or Oby-won :) Mark the rock is lichen free and very clean. The upper corner had a touch of water in one of the cracks but as you know it has rained recently. Very very clean route now.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 13, 2011

i agree Matt that it might be a contender for the best .9 in rumney (and i have done all the routes listed other than giant's chimney)... clean and long, interesting and beautiful...
another of my favorites is Bridge to Nowhere (5.9) which is the second pitch jakob and i added to Abby Normal (5.10c) last year... really fun with great positioning...
By S. Neoh
Apr 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Alright, to all you slab masters, I will have to check this route and Bridge To Nowhere out this year. I have no excuse now that I have a 70m rope on order.
If working hard to send a route is any measure of quality, Smokestack gets my vote for best 5.9 at Rumney. Jay Knower agrees too from what I just read. I actually liked it quite a bit, just a little surprised by how pumpy it felt. Full value; 5.9+ with emphasis on the "+".
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 13, 2011

Yeah, I agree with you S. Neoh that Smokestack is the best 5.9 on the hill. It's a 5.9 sport route that climbs like a heinous alpine trad pitch, which is the best of both worlds: safe climbing, but sketchy moves. Do I chimney? Layback? Stem? All three at once? Such is the joy of Smokestack.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 10, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Mark/Lee, what's Giants Chimney?

Edit: Psyycchhh... I just stumbled upon Lee's map for the Summit Crag and saw it listed there. :)
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

"This climb was done by me and my friend Rob in 1980. It was terrifying on trad gear and I was a rookie. Worst part of it then was at the top because there and still are only small twigs for trees to belay off of far from the cliff's edge. I rated it 5-6 dismissing the start because it was just a boulder problem."

Comment by bradley white on May 6th, 2009 12:56 pm
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Aug 24, 2012

There is a pine tree on the left a little higher than mid way. This tree has used by us for rappel. Using this tree for two rappels a 50m ropes works.
By S. Neoh
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

OK, we warmed up on this route today. Nice. Felt a bit harder than Air and Present Danger. And throw in a bit of Jolt. I did not right away think it is the best .9 at Rumney. Sorry!!
The first bolt in the inside corner leading to the finish is too low to protect much especially if you clip a 2-foot sling to it, as recommended in the guide book.
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Thanks Jim!
Best 9 at Rumney, at least that I've done! well worth the hike. After reading comments I'll be looking for Smokestack next
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

After doing smokestack (the best 5.9+ in Rumney) I still say this is the best 5.9 : )
By Matt Stamplis
From: Boston, MA
May 12, 2013

The start just got a lot harder - the large block that this guy's left foot is standing on is gone:
mountainproject.com/v/10710254...
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
May 12, 2013

That's a shame...
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 12, 2013

fuckin' thieves
By S. Neoh
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Whoa, the thing appeared solid when we did the route three weeks ago. Was the fallen down tree at the start of the route also got pushed downhill?
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
May 12, 2013

I haven't gotten the opportunity to climb this yet but have been really stoked on it. How much does this affect the climb? Any idea on the grade? This is really too bad, it looks from the picture that you would use that for hands too...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I don't know if I would do a Cannon route with you, Soon! From the ground as I was walking by it a few weeks ago it looked like it had the potential to fall off to me, lol (the lol was especially for Eric)
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 12, 2013

Ha - mark..i got a Cannon route for you

6pitches, independant x for belays 12-ish
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I walked by this on the way down on Saturday. A chainsaw will be called for. And yeah... it changes the start just a little.
By S. Neoh
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Mark, I was with Dim and OM. None of us thought the block was detached! Honestly, I was more concerned about breaking off parts of the flakes at the start of Finland.
Chances are we will be curious enough to give the new start a try the next time we are in the neighborhood.
By Ming
May 19, 2013

With that block gone the start is significantly harder - and that is if you use the dead tree's root as a foot on the left of the bolt - and that thing is rotting and flexing so it won't be there for long. The 1st bolt does NOT protect the move - which is now the crux of the route. I would say it's a solid 5.10A now at the start w/using root as a foot, solid 10+ (my guess) without the root. I tried going right and the great crimp that would've kept the grade reasonable broke as I tried - thank goodness we stick clipped the 2nd clip! Without the crimp going right at 1st bolt is probably 11ish move now.

I would recommend drilling a new 1st bolt that is higher and possibly to the left which would protect 1st few moves off the ground, or someone will get hurt! Also I suspect a chainsaw and removing the remnants of the dead tree stump and some cleaning may reveal a softer start that can be protected with a new 1st bolt which will keep the grade at 5.9. I'll be happy to help with the effort.
By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
May 20, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Climbed this sunday and had similar experience as Ming. Messy start with a lack of a left foot unless you use the rotting tree/stump and even still it makes for a sketchy second clip with the first bolt not protecting much other than a tumble down hill. I tried to clean some holds of dirt but it will probably need a thorough cleaning either right or left before it feels good to climb.
By David Quinn
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The loose blocks and root have been removed and the 1st bolt has been repositioned\replaced with a stainless steel glue in.
By S. Neoh
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Thank you, Dave! I am sure many will appreciate your cleanup and retool.
Is the new start now 9+ or 10?
By David Quinn
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The credit for this job should go to Smitty, as he did the brunt of the job! I only pitched off the final loose block from the starting ledge, (its still on the ground at the base of the route), and popped in the new bolt. I will try to get the block moved out of the way as soon as I can. The route also needs a little cleaning at the base. The grade has only increased slightly if any, so perhaps 9+, climb it and see what you think.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I climbed this this weekend. It is a really nice route, a nice long pitch too. My previous characterizations were based on climbing one of the routes to the right I think, years ago. For me the bouldery start went best by laybacking the angling holds left of the bolt, left foot up high and popping my right into a backstep. Then it was a little bit of a move going left to a better hold to get established for moving up. There is one block in the finishing corner that I would avoid using if you can. It looks like it could potentially rip off. There are alternative holds around it though. I think the bouldery start may make the route 9+ now.
By David Quinn
Oct 8, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The Oak tree blocking the base of the route, (as seen in the photo above) has been removed.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Jul 7, 2014

I finally was able to get on this yesterday after wanting to do it for a couple years now and just never really getting the chance. What a beautiful climb! A lot of people really hyped this route for me and I'm happy to say it lived up to those expectations. Strong three stars from me. I never got a chance to do the old start but the new one did not seem too bad, 5.9+ sounds about right.