B-b-butress starting block has fallen off. Proposing a new start to keep it at the same grade

So the huge block (refrigerator sized) that was the starting hold and foot for B-b-buttress has completely fallen off. As it stands now the first move is much harder using a dead rotting root (5.10A...maybe even a little more, much harder w/o using the root) and the first bolt does not protect the move at all - we stick clipped the 2nd bolt by climbing the fallen tree to the left of the start of the climb to get high enough to clip the 2nd bolt - you cannot stick clip the 2nd bolt from the ground. Going right from the 1st bolt resulted in a broken hand hold and an estimate of around 11A to free the move.

I think with a chainsaw and some cleaning the start will expose a new moderate start - but a new 1st bolt (left and higher than the current 1st bolt) will be needed to protect the move.

Anyhow, I'm happy to do the cleanup but I'll need some help and I also don't have a chainsaw. As for drilling I never drilled before so I would prefer someone who has a better eye on placement. Maybe if people organize a Jolt cleanup day we can also use it to straighten out B-b-buttress.

So there have been a lot of rockfall at Rumney this spring. Be careful!

I think the major rock work should be handled by experienced route developers so that it is done well. This goes for Jolt/Dolt clean up also.

Also, you should leave any modifications to B-Buttress to Jim

I agree with you Ming. If you want help cleaning up the start of B-B-Buttress I would be happy to help. I can talk to Shimberg and see how he feels about moving the start bolt, I have a feeling he will be all for it, to keep it at a consistent grade. I will try to talk to him soon.

No disrespect to you Jake, but I think having the outlook that only the people who have cleaned up a route before should be able to re-clean them is flawed. I agree with checking with Jim before moving a bolt but if Ming wants to help scrub the new start and help with the moving of the tree, I do not see any reason to prevent that. It is time that the next generation step up at Rumney and learn the tricks of the trade and maintain the routes. I do not think it is fair to expect Mark, Ward, Chris, Shimmy and the other original Rumney crew to do all the heavy lifting while we enjoy the benefits. We all have to learn at some point so we can become experienced :)

I don't think they should have to do it all either.. but some guidance might be a good idea.

I do think there should be experience and knowledge passed down to the "next generation". I've talked to Mark about it before.. there needs to be a new group that can do trail maintenance and route upkeep. There should be some instruction involved though, either with the usual guys or forest service clinics or something.

my concern was that clean up for Jolt was skewing off to removing flakes off Electric Socks, and adding bolts. I re-read what he said and it seems that he just wants to cut a fallen tree.. not a live tree.. which would be less of a concern for the forest service folks.

In the wise words of Jack Marshall of NJC "Rule #10: holds break, the grade stays the same" :)

I believe talking to Shim and asking him what he likes to see happen next to BBB is a good first step. I am sure he has good guidance to offer us and we can in turn volunteer to do the heavy lfiting.

The RCA may be able to see if the Forest Service could send a guy over with a saw. One of their guys can make short work of a fallen tree and do it safely. They have the safety gear and the know how. Technically speaking people are not supposed to use a chainsaw in the NF without prior certification by the FS I believe. Personally, I would see what you can do safely with a good big sharp handsaw or just not worry about it for a while and wait until the FS can take care of it in conjunction with some other trail clearing that needs to be done over there.

I don't mean to initiate anything - just want to help. Def. ask Jim about it. Again, happy to help, not mean to do anything unilaterally or anything. Also there are two fallen trees I'm referring to - a big one that blocks getting to the route and a stump at the beginning of the route where the start is.

The big fallen tree will definitely need forest service attention - it'll be there for years and block the route for the foreseeable future.

As for the stump - it looked like the tree was the culprit that split the boulder that fell with its deep roots before it died - removing just part of the stump and the root should expose a new moderate start.