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 ADVANCED
Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azucar S 
Bearly Hanging On S 
Bearly Hanging On Direct S 
Crotalid S 
Dirty V S 
Elapsid S 
Half Pint -Trailhead Boulder 
It's easy to be brave... S 
Mid Life Crisis -Trailhead Boulder 
Monkey! - Trailhead Boulder 
Niether S 
Thunder Down Under S 

Azucar 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Erik Pikas, Andrea Long 2011
Page Views: 449
Submitted By: Erik-Pikas on Sep 18, 2012

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Working up into the Azucar roof

Description 

Short but sweet! Some tricky/ balancy moves up the steep face lead to the massive roof. Clip the bolt at the top of the face then work out the overhang to clip the chain perma-draw. Pull the huge overhang and step up and right onto a ledge. From here you can basically stand up and clip the chains.
An easier variation (called Sweet & Low) goes up the dirty offwidth to the left of the start, and can be protected with a #4 Camalot.


Location 

The first, and farthest left bolted route here. You can see the anchors from the logging road. Start below the massive overhang about 10 feet right of a huge inside corner with a dirty chimney.


Protection 

Sport. 3 bolts to an 2 bolt anchor. It's short, but you won't be disappointed. An optional #4 Camalot protects the easier variation.



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Its a sweet roof.
Its a sweet roof.
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By tk1085
Oct 25, 2012

I Finally got this climb after maybe 7-10 tries. very thin and un-obvious face to very fun roof. with a trade marked butt jam somewhere in the middle it is possible without the butt jam i'm told.