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Overview of the Azkaban Jam crack.
At the eastern end of the Rad Cliff is a dark buttress with a prominent crack on its right side. Climb straight up the crack. Be careful passing a loose block about 30 feet up. When the difficulties ease, continue a short distance to a belay alcove where a narrow knobby catwalk leads to the right across a varnished face. The easiest exit is a 4th class traverse about 60 feet to the right to a rappel tree at the top of the Dementor. A two-rope rappel leads back to the base.An alternative exit is to continue up easy rock for a half pitch to the top of the buttress, then scramble down to the east.
Ordinary rack: finger-size through fists
Nearing the top of the Azkaban Jam.
This is the belay position at the top of Azkaban J...
By Jer Collins
Mar 25, 2004
No dementors patrolling this route, I hope!
By Charles Moreton
Nov 7, 2013
Some nice moves but a little care is needed as the rock is a bit suspect in places.