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 ADVANCED
The Rad Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azkaban Jam T 
Basilisk Fang T 
Cadillac Crack T 
Chamber of Secrets, The T 
Dark Arts T 
Dementor, The T 
Diagon Alley T 
Falling Rein T 
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 
Get Rad T 
Moaning Myrtle T 
Rita Skeeter T 

Azkaban Jam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 729
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 1, 2002

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Overview of the Azkaban Jam crack.

Description 

At the eastern end of the Rad Cliff is a dark buttress with a prominent crack on its right side. Climb straight up the crack. Be careful passing a loose block about 30 feet up. When the difficulties ease, continue a short distance to a belay alcove where a narrow knobby catwalk leads to the right across a varnished face. The easiest exit is a 4th class traverse about 60 feet to the right to a rappel tree at the top of the Dementor. A two-rope rappel leads back to the base.An alternative exit is to continue up easy rock for a half pitch to the top of the buttress, then scramble down to the east.

Protection 

Ordinary rack: finger-size through fists


Photos of Azkaban Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the top of the Azkaban Jam.
Nearing the top of the Azkaban Jam.
This is the belay position at the top of Azkaban J...
This is the belay position at the top of Azkaban J...

Comments on Azkaban Jam Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jer Collins
Mar 25, 2004

No dementors patrolling this route, I hope!
By Charles Moreton
Nov 7, 2013

Some nice moves but a little care is needed as the rock is a bit suspect in places.