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 ADVANCED
Upper Buttress
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Axis of Evil S 
Unusual Suspects S 

Axis of Evil 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall and Jeff Constine
Page Views: 648
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Aug 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

The best route on the wall, follow long pulls on large through various weaknesses in roughly a straight line to a crux, thought provoking, top-out traverse. Going straight up from the last bolt looks possible, but much harder than 5.11. It is also way way way better to do the traverse and end up on a summit ramp that is not more than three feet wide.

Location 

The uppermost and leftmost route on the Upper Buttress. There is a nice belay ledge and a bolt to keep the belayer from flying off said ledge. That being said, the ledge at the base of the route to the right is lower and the belayer is in no danger there. I prefer that belay.

Protection 

Several bolts to chains.


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By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route, good warmup. But very inconsistent. Mostly 5.10- climbing with one move at the top.
By Lance Ranzer
Jun 23, 2014

Great climb! Huge CRUX at the top - small grips on nasty slopers with not much feet to support. Be careful of the nice flake hold above the slopers, its crumbling a tad (grab it higher up on the left)