Axis of Evil Arete
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This is the Gate Buttress " summit" pitch. Climb all of the Tingy's Tourture and hike up and slightly west from the last set of chains, to a big pine tree with a flat base. It climbs the obvious arete past bolts. It was bolted on lead. There is a funky 5.9 crack on the left side of the formation too. Rap from fixed anchors.
Draws and a #1 Camalot
|Comments on Axis of Evil Arete
From: Spokane, WA
Sep 12, 2005
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Still gritty. Good crystal-climbing. Good exposure. Since you are up there anyway on Tingey's, you might as well do this pitch. It is fun, but not as good as some of the pitches on Tingey's. The bolting is great! There are still many variations up there to be done. From the base of this climb, the scramble down to the Schoolroom rappel is relatively quick. I haven't done the rappels, but I doubt they are much faster.
Feb 15, 2006
Fun pitch...right out of the Mountain Goat penthouse!
|By glen kaplan|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I've actually started downclimbing the East Gate and find it to be a better descent since you get to walk past all those awesome looking routes that hardly get climbed (and it's about the same as either the rap or the walk/rap). From the base of Axis or from the top of Tingey's, aim for the slot off the east side (climber's right). There is some awesome looking jigsaw calcite (or whatever) deposits that you down climb under... there is also two pretty worthy cracks that can be toproped on your right (as you descend). Maybe they will get developed one day??? the downclimb is mostly 4th with maybe two or three ez 5th...there are a few slung trees...and i plan on putting in a decent rap route :)
anyway...ima gonna post about that east gate area--i've got lots to say...check it out
Jul 14, 2007
Tyler, you get my vote for best route names! If you're ever in southern AZ, let me know.
|By bus driver|
Jun 27, 2012
Good fun. Nice view of the Pawn on top.