Axis of Evil Arete 5.8
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Tyler Phillips, Tyler MConville |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Jan 1, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Tingey's w/o lines
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is the Gate Buttress " summit" pitch. Climb all of the Tingy's Tourture and hike up and slightly west from the last set of chains, to a big pine tree with a flat base. It climbs the obvious arete past bolts. It was bolted on lead. There is a funky 5.9 crack on the left side of the formation too. Rap from fixed anchors.
Protection Draws and a #1 Camalot
| Comments on Axis of Evil Arete |
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By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Sep 12, 2005
rating: 5.9-
| Still gritty. Good crystal-climbing. Good exposure. Since you are up there anyway on Tingey's, you might as well do this pitch. It is fun, but not as good as some of the pitches on Tingey's. The bolting is great! There are still many variations up there to be done. From the base of this climb, the scramble down to the Schoolroom rappel is relatively quick. I haven't done the rappels, but I doubt they are much faster. |
By Tea
Feb 15, 2006
| Fun pitch...right out of the Mountain Goat penthouse! |
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.8+
| I've actually started downclimbing the East Gate and find it to be a better descent since you get to walk past all those awesome looking routes that hardly get climbed (and it's about the same as either the rap or the walk/rap). From the base of Axis or from the top of Tingey's, aim for the slot off the east side (climber's right). There is some awesome looking jigsaw calcite (or whatever) deposits that you down climb under... there is also two pretty worthy cracks that can be toproped on your right (as you descend). Maybe they will get developed one day??? the downclimb is mostly 4th with maybe two or three ez 5th...there are a few slung trees...and i plan on putting in a decent rap route :)
anyway...ima gonna post about that east gate area--i've got lots to say...check it out |
By Braxtron
From: ...
Jul 14, 2007
| Tyler, you get my vote for best route names! If you're ever in southern AZ, let me know. |
By bus driver
Jun 27, 2012
| Good fun. Nice view of the Pawn on top. |
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