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Echo Cove - South Face
Routes Sorted
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Allergy 
Ass of Dog 
Atari 
Axe of Dog 
Bacon Flake 
Bonzo Dog Band 
C.S. Special 
Chips Ahoy 
F.U.N. 
Fear of Dogs 
Fear of God 
Flake and Bake 
Gordon-Bartlett 
Horny Corner 
J.B.'s Variation 
Out on a Limb 
Pocket Veto 
Poodle Skirt 
Possessed by Elvis 
R.M.L. 
Riddler, The 
Sabretooth 
Sicker than Jezouin 
Sitting Here in Limbo 
Statute of Limbitations 
TM's Terror 
Unknown 

Axe of Dog 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dan Ahlborn, Dave Evans, Randy Vogel, Kevin Powell & Tim Powell, November 1976
Page Views: 895
Submitted By: vincent L. on Jan 1, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: "Axe of Dog".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Two routes right of the popular Bonzo Dog Band, this route climbs a nice lieback to a short tenuous face move to an easy crack to the top. The route takes solid trad gear, the crux is well protected, and there are rap rings at the finish. What else could you ask for? Parking for the route is maybe 18 feet away. 2 stars out of 5.


Protection 

pro to 3 inches



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By Bo Johnston
Feb 22, 2006

I just TRIED climbing this last week and think that something is wrong with the rating and description of this route. I agree it starts with a nice layback to a very tough crux at the end (I took a 20'er to a cam I had at the lip. Then the description says it's easy crack to the top??? By the guidebook photo it seems that you should climb straight up to the anchors and that passes 2 horizontal cracks and 2 bolts. The climbing is desparate and well above the 10a level. Does anyone have insight to what happened to me??

By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 22, 2006

The straight up route you describe, past the 2 bolts and horizontals, is called Fear of God (5.11c). The 3 bolt arete right of that is called Fear of Dogs (5.11a); both routes end at a shared 2 bolt anchor found on the ledge above.

Axe of Dog finishes slightly to the left in a left-slanting crack shared by Ass of Dog. The bolted routes were done after the 1992 Vogel guide came out, but they are in the 2002 edition of Central JT (Bartlett).

By Bo Johnston
Feb 22, 2006

Thanks Chris, I had a feeling you'd know. I'll have to go back and take a better look. 5.11c is really hard by the way! LOL

By dave edgell
Apr 23, 2009

Pretty sure this is the climb - been about ten years now. My partner Bob and I had had a great day climbing in Echo Cove. Thought I would jump on this at the end of day as it was about 15 feet from the car bumper. I was just breaking into leading 5.10s, and this looked not too bad - good gear, short crux. Just as I was racking up, a big truck/van pulls up and out jumps Jim Bridwell!!! After reading about his exploits in countless magazines and books, I'm pretty inspired!! Anyway, Jim and his friends head off to climb something nearby, so off I start. Pretty soon I get to just below the crux, and plug in Bob's brand new red#1 camalot. Bomber placement. I stood there contemplating the crux, thinking that it looked pretty hard and greasy for 5.10a. Typical J Tree smears and belief that you won't peel. I move past the #1, and almost through the crux when I realize that this isn't going to work. Bob's #1 camalot takes a fall...and another....and another...and another. Bob's getting a little concerned about his new gear, and I'm getting frustrated. Finally, one last try, and I make it to the easy crack above, and let out a shout of triumph. I'm all smiles as I sail up the easy crack above and setup the belay. As I'm bringing Bob up, Jim Bridwell walks by - looks up at me, gives me a big grin and thumbs up, and says something to the effect of "way to stick with it". I feel like the hand of god has just reached down and touched me!!! I'm on cloud nine! When Bob gets to the belay I can't control my excitement "Dude, did you hear that!! Jim Bridwell just told me good job!!!". Bob looks over at Jim and says "That old geezer? What's he ever done?"

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 23, 2009

Good story Dave!

By Brian Chastain
Nov 19, 2013

This climb is really fun. Kind of a one move wonder in between the two diagonal sections.