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Avy beacon for Rainier in June?

Original Post
Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

All the guide service gear lists mention beacons, but some people I've talk to say not needed. Going June 11, DC route.

Thoughts? Better safe than sorry? How prevalent is unstable snowpack in June?

Thanks in advance.

Nick Seaman · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 125

Out of 7 times on the mountain I've never carried a beacon, but I've never climbed in bad avi conditions. If conditions warranted a beacon I would just drink beer in town.

The climbing season usually starts in late May, but it's different every year. I'm not sure what the snowpack is like this year. Check the Rainier climbing blog regularly to find out what climbing conditions are like, keep an eye on the weather, and make sure you know what the avi danger is before you set out. Weather has always been the crux for me! Good luck!

Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 2,513

I carried a beacon and summited rainier last June. We were skiing though, so we approached the objective with that mind-set. Most of the time the snowpack was bomber, but there were definitely moments of exposure to higher hazard during which I was happy to have it. Specifically significant warming late in the day increasing the likelihood of loose-wet slides on slopes we were ascending/descending. Doesn't seem crazy to me at all. It's a valid point that if your partners are beacon-less, it's doing you less (though still some) good.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

I'm all for carrying avy bacon. It makes for a great snack and pastime while you patiently wait for the rescue party to arrive, probe for you and then dig you out.

Tom-onator · · trollfreesociety · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 790
Mike Lane wrote:I'm all for carrying avy bacon. It makes for a great snack and pastime while you patiently wait for the rescue party to arrive, probe for you and then dig you out.
Ha Ha!
Mike if you squeeze your Avy bacon hard enough can you use the grease as sunscreen?
Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

If youre doing the DC you arent going to need an avy beacon.

The guide coruses only list them because they teach how to use one.

If I was going to a less travelled side of the mountain I might bring one (then again whos going to get there in time for it to be useful)... but the DC no.

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

Thanks very much for the replies!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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