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Avy beacon for Rainier in June?
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May 14, 2013
Living the High Life.
All the guide service gear lists mention beacons, but some people I've talk to say not needed. Going June 11, DC route.

Thoughts? Better safe than sorry? How prevalent is unstable snowpack in June?


Thanks in advance.
Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Joined Aug 22, 2007
322 points
May 14, 2013
Out of 7 times on the mountain I've never carried a beacon, but I've never climbed in bad avi conditions. If conditions warranted a beacon I would just drink beer in town.

The climbing season usually starts in late May, but it's different every year. I'm not sure what the snowpack is like this year. Check the Rainier climbing blog regularly to find out what climbing conditions are like, keep an eye on the weather, and make sure you know what the avi danger is before you set out. Weather has always been the crux for me! Good luck!
Nick Seaman
From Denver, CO
Joined Jun 23, 2009
83 points
May 15, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
nobody else will have one... so even if lightening struck and you were somehow buried under dirty glacier ice, rock, or neve, nobody could locate you Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
266 points
May 15, 2013
I carried a beacon and summited rainier last June. We were skiing though, so we approached the objective with that mind-set. Most of the time the snowpack was bomber, but there were definitely moments of exposure to higher hazard during which I was happy to have it. Specifically significant warming late in the day increasing the likelihood of loose-wet slides on slopes we were ascending/descending. Doesn't seem crazy to me at all. It's a valid point that if your partners are beacon-less, it's doing you less (though still some) good. Max Tepfer
From Bend, OR
Joined Oct 23, 2007
1,586 points
May 15, 2013
Stabby
I'm all for carrying avy bacon. It makes for a great snack and pastime while you patiently wait for the rescue party to arrive, probe for you and then dig you out. Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points
May 15, 2013
Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
Mike Lane wrote:
I'm all for carrying avy bacon. It makes for a great snack and pastime while you patiently wait for the rescue party to arrive, probe for you and then dig you out.

Ha Ha!
Mike if you squeeze your Avy bacon hard enough can you use the grease as sunscreen?
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
800 points
May 15, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
If youre doing the DC you arent going to need an avy beacon.

The guide coruses only list them because they teach how to use one.

If I was going to a less travelled side of the mountain I might bring one (then again whos going to get there in time for it to be useful)... but the DC no.
superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
May 15, 2013
Living the High Life.
Thanks very much for the replies! Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Joined Aug 22, 2007
322 points


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