This obscurity has some lichen issues, but otherwise is on par w/ Divine Wind -- the middle part of the climb offers sustained laybacking and stemming w/ generally good gear. Rolofson gives it a PG which is not really justified, though placing pro at the crux is both strenuous and not completely obvious.
Proceed straight up from the end of Wild Cat's first pitch, following easy licheny cracks and corners for about 25'. At a fork, traverse right around an undercling to reach a right-facing corner; establishing oneself in the corner is surprisingly hard/awkward. Up the corner to where it steepens and cruxes. Finish with easy slabbing which leads to the anchors or Clever Cat. Two single rope raps back to the ground.
Start at the bolt anchor at the end of Wild Cat's first pitch.
Single set of nuts from RPs to medium. Set of cams from blue Alien to blue Camalot with doubles in thin fingers and smaller.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Jan 30, 2011
This is a terrific pitch that deserves much more traffic. Once you pull into the corner, it's great climbing all the way, and it feels longer than it looks. The crux is a very cool, powerful sequence, and the exit onto the slab isn't all that easy either.