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Avoiding FF2 falls onto your sling during direct aid?
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Administrator
Apr 10, 2010
So it seems to be standard practice to attach one daisy chain to each aider, two daisy chains and two aiders total. One then places the first piece, bounce tests it, climbs the aider, places the second piece, connects the second aider and daisy to the second piece, bounce tests it well holding onto the first aider, shifts their weight onto the second piece, then clips the rope to the first piece and disconnects the daisy and aider from the first piece. Well at the point where the climber shifts their weight fully onto the second piece, if the piece pulls they are going to fall straight onto their daisy still attached to the first piece. So how can one avoid this very dangerous static fall?

Obviously one could disconnect the daisy from the first piece before climbing up onto the second piece but that would greatly increase the complexity and time requirement of the pitch.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Apr 11, 2010
avitar pic
screamer daiseys are the answer you seek. Jason Kaplan
From Glenwood ,Co
Joined Jul 31, 2005
3,606 points
Site Landlord
Apr 11, 2010
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
and see this thread. 1 adjustable daisy + quick draw (free ladders). No daisy fall possible.

mountainproject.com/v/big_wall...

I just used this technique (new to me) on Touchstone and it was sweet. ZERO cluster.
Andy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,411 points


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