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Redgarden - Tower Two
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Wingless Victory 

Avoid the Rush 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: No
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: mike schlauch on Dec 11, 2013
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  • Description 

    This is a fun link-up that avoids the somewhat spicey, gear intensive start to After the Gold Rush but still allows you to climb the really fun 12a arete.

    Start on the 5.11 finger crack of Le Void (the right of the 2 obvious cracks). Once at the ledge, instead of launching up into the 11d tips layback on Le Void, step right (fun 5.9) to a stance below the bolted arete on After the Gold Rush. This variation is called Avoid (Roger & Bill Briggs, 1973).

    Climb the arete past 2 bolts (12a). Step left at the top of the arete to the sling anchor on Le Void. A 60m rope will get you back to the ramp.

    If you want a longer pitch -- instead of stepping left to the sling anchor on Le Void, you can also continue up After the Gold Rush (11d) passing one more bolt and then climbing the 5.11 cracks above the roof. Continue to the top via T2 or Seams Beyond or rap with 2 ropes back to the ramp from a horn. Add some extra small gear to the rack if you do this longer version.


    Location 

    Start on the 5.11 finger crack of Le Void. This is the right of the two obvious cracks.


    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack.



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