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Narrows, Redstone, McClure Pass
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Avocado Gully 
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Avocado Gully 

WI3-4 M2

   
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus: WI3+ M2- [details]
FA: unknown
Season: winter
Page Views: 3,929
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Dec 8, 2001
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2/97 fatter conditions.

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Description 

Classic moderate. South of Carbondale about 13 miles. West side of road (CO Hwy 133). Parking on East side. Short approach can be as little as 5 minutes through the woods. This can be a rock climb in lean years.

P1. WI2- 100 foot 1st pitch. May be just snow.

P2. WI3 80 foot 2nd pitch quite aesthetic to a tree.

P3. WI3 130 foot 3rd pitch - you can go straight up the more steep line or to the right in a sort of gully. Topping out can be mixed in drier conditions. Fixed anchor on right.

Rap the route. Fun.


Protection 

Ice screws, 2 ropes.



Photos of Avocado Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Tim Rollenhagen on the second pitch of Avocado Gully in thin conditions this year.  December 2001.  Photo by Chris Alstrin
Tim Rollenhagen on the second pitch of Avocado Gul...
Taken Jan-21-2002.
BETA PHOTO: Taken Jan-21-2002.
Juan Carlos Gavilanes Ruiz in the vertical section of the 2nd pitch of Avocado Gully. Jan-15-2010.
BETA PHOTO: Juan Carlos Gavilanes Ruiz in the vertical section...
1st REAL pitch, second if you count the lower gulley that most people walk around or solo.
1st REAL pitch, second if you count the lower gull...
2/97 2nd pitch in fatter conditions.
2/97 2nd pitch in fatter conditions.
Leading the last pitch.
Leading the last pitch.
2/97 3rd pitch in fatter conditions.
2/97 3rd pitch in fatter conditions.
Loren admiring the third pitch of Avocado Gully on 2/10/2007.
Loren admiring the third pitch of Avocado Gully on...
2nd pitch 1998.
2nd pitch 1998.
The top pitch. Anchors are out of sight on the rock wall to the right of the finish.
The top pitch. Anchors are out of sight on the roc...
Last pitch gets fat and fun.
Last pitch gets fat and fun.
Topping out on the 1st pitch.
Topping out on the 1st pitch.
Leading the second pitch of Avocado Gully on 2/10/2007.
Leading the second pitch of Avocado Gully on 2/10/...
First pitch.  There is a nice pecker placement tward the top.
BETA PHOTO: First pitch. There is a nice pecker placement twa...
Comments on Avocado Gully Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 30, 2013
By Scott Leonard
Dec 11, 2001

Avocado Gully is not fully formed. There appears to be a TV sized block perched at the top of the second pitch. This hazard could ice into position or...

By Bryan Gall
From: New Castle, CO
Jan 31, 2005

Ran up Avocado on Saturday; it was in decent shape with all the warm weather. The warm probably helps the gully receive moisture. Other things in Redstone are hit and miss. Redstone Pillar: looks fat. Drool: in. False Drool: no way. Hays Creek: not happening. Crystal River Slabs: wet rock. Didn't go to Marble falls but the sun hits the window on top, so educated guess says no.... Coal Creek: crazy things are happening in Coal Creek, with a little more cold and time it could be a wonderland of thin pillars.

By D Rubingh
From: Englewood, CO
Feb 21, 2006

Climbed Avocado Gully on 2/17/06. Description by Julian Smith on 1/8/06 pretty much sums it up: Bottom is mostly snow with a little bit of ice, second pitch is thin at the top (crampons skating on rock out to the right) and third pitch is fat.

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 26, 2007
rating: WI3 M1

Excellent moderate route. After climbing, you may want to soak in the hot springs on the river just across the road. Look for the small rock walls that define the warm pools.

By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Jan 29, 2011

We got down with a single 60m. It involved a short downclimb mostly on snow on the top rap. The 2nd rap just makes it on stretch. Be careful and tie knots in the end of the ropes.

By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jan 31, 2011

70m works great with no downclimbing.

By funkyicemonkey
From: Colorado
Feb 21, 2012

WI3? Really, not in thin conditions. Be cautious, this is no Spiral Staircase.

By Ryan N
From: Lone Tree, Colorado
Oct 13, 2012

The pullout is pretty obvious on the left at almost 10 miles from Carbondale. Look for a well packed trail on the right. Approach is about 3 min long. First "pitch" can be soloed but watch for thin mixed at top. The route is pretty obvious, but don't take the WI3 rating as easy. I've seen it in pretty lean conditions and goes in at a solid WI4. It's also in a gully, so it gets little sun and is quite cold.

By complimentary hits
From: Aspen, Colorado
Dec 30, 2013

Anybody know the conditions for this year? Seems like it should be decent.