Avalon  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Skinner and Wald, 1984 Submitted By:  Paul Heyliger on Oct 7, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Nate A in the thick (or thin) of it.

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Climb any route to get to the large ledge at the base of the obvious huge roof (Avalon/Brokedown Palace) near the left-center of the West face. Of the usual options, Jerry's Kids is the most even and well-protected. Avalon takes the left-hand crack up and out the left side of the obvious roof. The section off the ledge is the crux (11d), with a small fingercrack and face edges leading up to a (surprise) no-hands rest below the roof. The climbing eases here and continues above the roof to a semi-hanging belay. The next pitch (11c) continues above on the nice finger crack, with rests, for 2/3 a rope length to a belay below the choss.

Avalon is one of the finest hard-11 routes on the Tower, with outstanding rock, superb moves, and very good protection.

Protection 

Numerous RP's, small-mid stoppers, and small TCU's.

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More stems above the roof on the crux pitch. The r...